Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, u dun gotta say it, i aint the brainiest when it comes to cars but i know my basics atleast, which is a start. i bought myself a lil r33 gts, with an rb20e engine. at the time i didnt think much of it, and yes, i did know about it so dun start flamming me for it. i love my skylines, spesh r33's, and i didnt have enough for a gtst. anyway, i want to upgrade the engine in the near future. what would you guys recommend?

Ive herd a fair bit bout RB hybrids, rb25/30det or rb26/30det. would anyone recommend this? or would an rb26dett or just an rb25det for now be a better option? Which would be easier to fit into the r33 engine bay? any ideas?

Im not sure with what to go for, i just know i will need a new trans, new diff, and id want new gtr or gtst hubs with the bigger brakes.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145789-r33-engine-conversion/
Share on other sites

Sorry Dude.

If you can't afford a GTS-t, then you probably can't afford a conversion. I can't see you getting out of a conversion like this for less then 5-7k, considaring engine, brakes, intercooler, better fuel system etc etc etc........

ye i can understand that but its for the future kinda thing, im just unsure on whether it would be best to sell mine and buy a gtst or what to do and what to put money on, im talking like in a years time, ive got close to enough now but yeah

Agreed.

Sell the N/A and buy the turbo

You miss out on

gearbox

brakes/5 stud

LSD diff (maybe)

Motor, plus ALL associated turbo parts

there alone is well above and beyond the asking price of a turbo car offset against sale price of the N/A

Yeah mate,

Seel the n/a might get 6-10k dpeending and then u could buy a turbo with some goddies liek wheels and other extras for about 13-18k shopping around. Money far better spent, doing the conversion will cost u a shite load cause u will have to just about changed everything from fuel system,engine, computer, brakes, intercooler, also i htink the n/a has different diff maybe. even after that it still is not a gtst.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...