Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm selling my bike because as much as i love it, i simply dont ride it enough.

Year: 1990

Model: MC21R

Compliance date: Dec 2001

About 18,800km's.

I bought it about a year ago after it was built up by an nsr lover, and have since only ridden less than 1000km's. All work/mods performed at that time are listed below:

Mods

Tyga race chambers

Tyga lite upper fairing stay

Fully rebuilt SE/SP front end. Rechromed uppers re anodized lowers new seals.

Modified airbox

De restricted

One piece lower fairing

Tinted screen

Totally fresh 2 pack paint finish gunmetal metalic silver and gloss black covered in another 3 coats or so of 2 pack clear.

Stock tail with pillion pad full glove box and pegs

New front pads

New DID gold x-ring chain

New front sprocket

New alloy rear sprocket

Almost new tyres

New battery

In the past month I have spent about $500 at Southern Cross Sports in Melbourne for Yuki to tune the bike and replace some parts that needed replacing with brand new parts from Japan. It now rides like a dream! Accelerates very smoothly and quickly.

The paint condition is generally excellent, however when putting the fairing back on one time i twisted a small amount of paint off with the washer because i tightened it too hard. I have since touched this up with touch up paint and gloss, and its not too noticeable now. Theres also a minor hairline crack in the seat fairing, but its hardly noticeable even up close, and according to Yuki this is a common thing that happens when taking off nsr fairings.

Although these are only very minor issues (it is a 16 year old bike after all), i thought they were worth mentioning.

This bike is much quicker than any cbr/zxr/fzr250 etc. Official 0-100 times for stock nsr's are around 3.5 seconds.

Selling for $5200, including a rwc and 12 months rego (just renewed).

I am located in Clayton, Melbourne.

Recent Photo:

nsr250pu8.jpg

Edited by wixy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/146666-melb-honda-nsr250-motorbike/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
×
×
  • Create New...