Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

odification:

head:

fully rebuild, clean and tested , new valve, retainer, new valve hks spring, new hks camshafts. head come with 12 months free repairguarantee.

bottom end:

stock with recondition. now crack cylinder#1.

new power fc with hand control, rb25fam x 2, hks fuel pump, new sard 720cc injectors, new sard fuel regulator, new greddy oil catch can,

new custom made big single turbo, manifoild ,dump pipe , inlet pipe, turbo piping, fujisubo exhaust, r33 gtr driver seat, HKS 100mm intercooler, new hks 50mm waste gate, greddy e-01 boost controler, 17 inch two pice japanese wheels, os-gen twin plate clutch..........etc.

shell: no any accident, with N1 vent and side skirt.

colour: white.

Asking price: $20000 ono, come with all recepit.

If I can not sell my baby two weeks, I will go for re-build forged bottom end.

thanks interesting.

Brian

post-11001-1165819008.jpg

post-11001-1165819642.jpg

post-11001-1165819738.jpg

post-11001-1165819830.jpg

Edited by Midnight Racer
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/146899--/
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Latest Posts

    • I was just driving into work and while on my drive, I went to accelerate and noticed the car would sputter/hesitate and I’d hear a few pops from the exhaust before it started going faster. Then I also noticed that when I push my clutch in, the car would die. This all started happening today. Any ideas?
    • That is a lovely Volvo, just saying. Yes I should have got an 260RS when they were cheap. I do regret now.
    • ^ lots of good points made above. The thing is, "aggressive" or "flush" fitment is relative depending on how much you have been influenced by social media. My starting point is always "look at the Nismo RWD specs". That is where you should start, then start measuring as GTSBoy as sort of mentioned, because every car will be slightly different. My 8.5"+35/9.5+38 will not be "flush" enough for you because you want more "pumped" look, which is why you measure. Tyre sizes and brand/models also make a difference. Some tyres are more chunky/square, some are more rounded. That means you could get away with more aggressive offsets without rubbing. But then it also depends on your ride height. Also depends on how much your car copped damage before being shipped from Japan. So it goes back to measuring your car yourself and determining what can work. Those Nismo specs are used bacause it's a safe spec for standard car (suspension. body) with chunky tyres. But then I put 265/35 wide tyres on R34 GT-R wheels, and currently run 285/30 tyres on 18x10 wheels.
    • Sounds pretty awesome. I recommend creating a new build thread and posting all your goodness in there.
×
×
  • Create New...