Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all...

anyone out there know what kind of shocks skylines come with? mine need replacing :(

also, what kind of similar brands would be a good replacement for mine? i still got the stocky ones so they are due for a replacement (the rear ones anyway)

any preferred places you guys go to in vic?

thankz0r :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1470-where-to-go-for-new-shocks/
Share on other sites

bilstein a good I have them and have had them 4 or 5 times on various cars they aren't rock hard but hold the road well. the main distributer is quadrant suspension in berwick.

I know but well worth the trip but ring up first and ask.

may be think about springs as well.

meggala

Yep, what meggala said. They are VERY stiff, but not jarring.

There are also Koni's available, from TopPerformance in vermont, but they were slightly more expensive than the Bilsteins.

The Bilsteins cost just under 1G for 4 corners, I believe they are GMS Godzilla spec units.

ahh... thanks for the replies... what about whiteline suspension? anyone have any comments on their range of suspension parts?

i had a look at their prices and the works kit doesnt sound too bad... problem is the car gets lower a bit... i really wanna retain the stock height...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Probably speedometer itself if the odometer is ticking. If the needle is stuck from a bit of grease or something that can cause it to stay at 0. Or a cracked solder joint in the speedometer can do it too.
    • Thanks Fella’s   to take this off topic and to elaborate a bit more. I have an rb25/30 going into a r32 GTST.. expected to make around 600-700hp. Would you?   A) R34 GTT box   B) CD00#?  I’ve seen a few posts about the CD swap and sounds fairly involved with making it fit etc but if it’s worth the work then I’ll go that way
    • Lower at the hubs. Funny I forgot to mention that part. Do this pull here I turned the camera off too soon but the graph shows a drop at the top and that was because the pipe from the turbo blew off. The tuner said we could’ve made possibly another 15 whp. He also added if I switched to ethanol we could up the boost some more as well. I was comfortable capping it at the most of 20 pounds. Turns out the turbo pipe just needed a new worm clamp. Got home replaced that then did a third gear pull from 3k to 7200 rpm and the power was great to the top. I just got an ecu mounting bracket from IEE that I need to try and get everything to fit well. It’s a PITA to get the harness and ecu fit properly behind that kick plate 
    • He means "as opposed to mechanical cable drive". Older cars (R32 for ex.) had cable drive. Later cars with essentially the same gearbox, ie R34 GT (NA RB25) used essentially the same box as the R32 GTSt, but instead of a cable drive, had an electronic speed sender plugged into the same hole in the box, running from the same little gear that would have run the cable. Some of the shittier later cars use a speed sender on the nose of the diff, or the ABS sensors.
    • Lower than engine, or lower than it should at the hubs? Either way, that is a nice power figure and I'm not surprised you say it rips now. What stopped you from turning it up any more? Injectors? Or did it just stop responding to boost?
×
×
  • Create New...