Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i live on the gold coast, so ill keep your licence plate number on my dash, just incase, then if i see it, ill call the cops. nothing illegal on the car?.... i have a immobiliser , and a nice red blinking light in my car that looks like alarm system, but yeah, its easy to get around stuff like that. just learn how it works and you can get around it. unless you get what the newer wrx's have. that anti thief alarm, with a pad to put a 4 digit code in!!, the car will not start without the code, my room mate has a 05 model with this, and i believe no one is getting around that system.. oi, there should be a group by for these, cause i would get one!, AND IM SURE OTHERS WOULD NOW.. this could be why wrx's are not stolen, but skylines are.. and there are morte wrx's then skylines, nd alot more others cars out there, holdem v8's. no one is taking these.. these ass's know that skyline does not comes with good secruity.. they studied up..

Edited by seriesII
  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i think those plug inot the immobiliser though. check into it, i'd be interested for my next car.

enough ppl want one, ill see if i can start something up.. ill mess with the wrx one and see if i can get around it. but loox good so far. ill get a pic and all... if any one wants one. tell me.. see how many ppl we can get and see how cheap we can all get them.. can always take them and place it on another car if needed. so should last a while

there is still hope yet for my car! we have a lead to someone who is selling of 33 parts, like everything. investigating it now! there's gonna be some ass whooping if it is mine :laugh::laugh:

he posted it up on boost. my name is different on there. plus i havent made any reference to him directly

hmm ok then... well i dont condone violence in any form. Suggest you talk to my lawyer

*hands over aluminum bat

:laugh:

Hey guys,

Just thought i might make a point of observation.

Alot of u are posting in on various topics what immobiliser/alarm u have, pics of ur car, rough parking locations, what "anti-theft" measures u are taking...basically thats telling any amatuer thief what to do, what to look out for and where ur car is located.

Recently i had an alarm/immobiliser installed and decided to investigate how easy it is to steal a skyline in light of recent events and all i can say is that an alarm/immobiliser is only going to slow down a SINGLE thief by 20 mins...and thats assuming they r going to drive the car away...of course they can always tow a car with immobiliser/alarm, so basically, if they want ur car..there gonna get it. I had one of my friends have there car seconds from stolen (einstein) and that scared the sh*t out of me. Its a sad world these days owning a skyline.

Only alarm I would be looking at is a 3 point immobilising alarm, fuel/starter & ignition black wiring & back up battery siren, quick release steering wheels always is a good way to stop em too

Not worth the risk going cheap on a alarm!!!!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...