Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb30(26)dett Head Porting

=premo=

By =premo=,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

TriniGT Experienced

TriniGT

Posted
Posted
Don't remove the stud lumps...just improve their shape by getting rid of the sharp bump on the inner edge and lowering the height. If you remove it you will end up damaging the head.

Where did you get that from? I have seen many exhaust side heads and they have removed the lump. The fact that the exhaust manifold doesn't have the lump should alone indicate that it should be alright to remove the lump, I can't see it making the head any weaker, please enlighten me, is this from experience?

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
Where did you get that from? I have seen many exhaust side heads and they have removed the lump. The fact that the exhaust manifold doesn't have the lump should alone indicate that it should be alright to remove the lump, I can't see it making the head any weaker, please enlighten me, is this from experience?

No, it's a completely uneducated guess.

Of course it will weaken the head. The amount of material around the stud area is adequate to hold the weight of the manifold/turbo/exhaust etc. When you reduce the material it means there will be less support for the manifold studs. Not to say that it will break but you put a GT35R on it with a stainless manifold and you can bet it will crack through.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By Duncan · Posted

      Ha, I've never pressed the X in all these years incase it removed the notification for all Admins
    • Duncan
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By Duncan · Posted

      I don't know, I've never done it that way, but 1. While it is an interference engine, there is still clearance between the valves and the piston at all points in the regular timing cycle 2. There is not a lot of distance before you can't catch the top of the valve stem any more I don't know if 2 is greater or less than 1. But 3. If it doesn't work out you are f**ked, engine is coming out to disassemble so it is a big bet.
    • Duncan
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Duncan · Posted

      Semi slicks are horrible for road use, just use a high performance road tyre unless you really need the maximum grip. Noisy, unpredictable (amazing, until they are not), expensive due to very high wear and not good in cold and particular wet. And yes, it is a thing to store cars on stands instead of tyres if you know they are going to be parked up long term.....but who ever realises that a short park is going to stretch into years before it is out again!
    • MBS206
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I know in Australia you'll definitely get above 30c. Parked in the shade in Summer you'll be above that. 😛 But in cooler climates, you might get that warm driving on the highway for a bit, but you'd never get to full heat temp. I'll try and find some of my historical tyre temps between Aus summer and winter (be aware immin the warmer area of Aus too.)
    • sunsetR33
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      I get that taking off the head is best but that's a bit much for "just" valve seals. I was just under the impression that one would be able to rotate to TDC and be able to temporarily drop the valve without losing it and effectively having to remove the head to then recover it. I never knew people actually pushed rope into the cylinder to do valve seals hahaha So just to confirm, just going to TDC will not work? In that case I know when I do valve seals I'll maybe just remove the head and do some other things while I'm there, or just wait until I do an engine build.
×
×
  • Create New...