Jump to content
SAU Community

Not Quite There Yet!

b8r

By b8r,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

b8r Apprentice

b8r

Posted
Posted

I had may car at the mechanics late last week for a remap to suit the new turbo combo, much to my dissapointment there wasnt a whole lot of improvment in max power.

The current set up is an emanage ultimate, gt30/vg30, with a blitz sbc controlling boost.

While i am quite happy with the way the car drives i would still like to squeeze a little more out of it.

The suporting mods ive been told should see me around the 200 awkw mark, but the best so far was

176 on boost setting 4, 1.1 bar.

my problem is this, beyond this level, vehicle boost cuts. the mechanics have scoped and data logged to determine injector and air flow meter ranges but neither were the cause of boost cut, also inspected for boost sensing devices for factory ecu, none were evident.

They seem to think that the internal mapping of the factory ecu offers fuel cut at certain rpm when boost causes specific injector demand.

has any one else had this problem I know there are a quite a few s1 out there that have 200awk and above,

any ideas or advice would be appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148814-not-quite-there-yet/
Share on other sites
STAGE-A Rising Star

STAGE-A

Posted
Posted

yeah id also like to know as i cant adjust my boost at all without the boost cut ... 100% factory boost spec with the annoying dual stage boost control. I tried doing the boost solenoid trick and it jus hit the boost cut (can run it standard tho and no probs??? weird)

So now i have a hi flow turbo and im back to fully stock boost ... feels tha same as a stock turbo runnin about 11-12 pounds ... very annoying especially when i got smoked badly by someone on this forum the other day when they werent even in a Nissan :pirate: you know who u are!! :laugh:

cmon guys an girls any help??

Lee

fergo308 Rising Star

fergo308

Posted
Posted

again,people keep denying the boost cut exists,when it does. rich and retard does NOT put your head through the windscreen in the same way the boost cut does.

1.1bar is just over a kg/cm2,which is where my series 2 oes the same thing - it CUTS the ignition. it doesn't retard it a few degrees,it stops it.

a retard gives you a dull feeling,a cut stops the party entirely,which is what happens. again,do people want a demo? I'm still happy to be proven wrong in person on this.

Justin...

mr manfringinsen Contributor

mr manfringinsen

Posted
Posted

I think the series 2 does monitor the boost at the ECU but the series 1 doesn't. They both run an R34 style of ECU but the series 1 is the only one to run the older RB25DET with this ECU. This means a few changes such as no facility for oil temp monitoring etc. I would follow wolverines advice.

STAGE-A Rising Star

STAGE-A

Posted
Posted
again,people keep denying the boost cut exists,when it does. rich and retard does NOT put your head through the windscreen in the same way the boost cut does.

1.1bar is just over a kg/cm2,which is where my series 2 oes the same thing - it CUTS the ignition. it doesn't retard it a few degrees,it stops it.

a retard gives you a dull feeling,a cut stops the party entirely,which is what happens. again,do people want a demo? I'm still happy to be proven wrong in person on this.

Justin...

had mine on the dyno by a well respected tuner in Perth and he was the one that said it was the boost cut. confusing :P

Tangles Grand Master

Tangles

Posted
Posted
again,people keep denying the boost cut exists,when it does. rich and retard does NOT put your head through the windscreen in the same way the boost cut does.

1.1bar is just over a kg/cm2,which is where my series 2 oes the same thing - it CUTS the ignition. it doesn't retard it a few degrees,it stops it.

a retard gives you a dull feeling,a cut stops the party entirely,which is what happens. again,do people want a demo? I'm still happy to be proven wrong in person on this.

Justin...

Yup, I know exactly what you are feeling there. With the SAFC and SITC you can tune around these, use a Z32 air flow meter too for better resolution for the tune. Make sure you have a good fuel pump and maybe a nismo fuel reg, then get it tuned on the dyno. Obviously a good exhaust & cool air supply is a necessity.

You'll get around that BAM into the windscreen feeling :(

Ive got that problem now, had everything tuned nicely with the stnd turbo but with the highflow now on, winding the boost to 14psi results in "head-2-windscreen" sydrome - as you describe, its like the ecu just shuts up shop, a feeling very similar to when you hit the revlimiter in 4th gear on a sportsbike = over the front you go!

ggrrr need a retune! need funds lol :happy:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Watermouse
      Original window sticker?

      By Watermouse · Posted

      I got a full sheet set of OEM copied stickers to replace all the faded engine bay ones, great quality too.  Came from England. Someone like that should be able to to make u up what u want so long as u have a quality image to show them 🤷🏻‍♂️
    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      RB25DET NEO Cylinder Head

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
×
×
  • Create New...