mr manfringinsen

I bought the Whiteline sway bars, Bilstein shocks and various bushes in the group buy approx three years ago. Due to circumstances beyond my control I didn't get around to installing them until recently. Unfortunately I discovered I had the forked style rear Bilsteins for a GTR instead of the heim joint GTST style. I fired off an email to SK just to let him know, but had reconciled myself to the fact that I should have checked when I recieved them, Caveat Emptor. He not only found someone who required the GTR shocks and happened to have a set of GTST's to swap but organised the shipping etc. This is done on his own time. Thank you SK

DaveB The third adjuster is underneath the little idler wheel at the bottom. Loosen the idler wheel first before you nip it up. If you remove the plastic guard under the front of the car it is as plain as day. My power steering made some noise before I changed the oil. It was reasonably obvious because if you turned the steering at low speed, it made the noise louder

Mine made a sound which at first sounded like the timing belt rubbing it's cover. It turned out the turbo was coming loose on the exhaust manifold. I nipped up the nuts on the four studs and it was as right as rain.

The ignition timing shouldn't stop the car from running. If you need to time it, find the loop of white wire coming out of the loom at the back of the head. Put the timing light trigger on it and aim the timing light at the timing marks on your harmonic balancer. +0-5-10-15-20 degrees from left to right from memory. Adjust the CAS to 15 or 20 degrees. This will at least test that the coils are trying to trigger a spark.

What problem did you have with the PWR lines?

I'd suggest it is 141244km's.

I have made up a tool to compress the valve springs and remove the retainers but I am concerned about replacing them. There isn't a great deal of room as the valve spring is recessed into the head. If anyone has done this in the past have you used special retainer pliers or some other method to replace them?

I believe each mines ECU is set up for each individual cars modifications. As you have noticed they can give you some information if you give them your serial number etc. I have yet to do this. Hopefully they will tell you if your ECU is optimised for turbo type A, injector size B etc etc. My unit is very aggressive on the ignition timing and I have to use RON98. Moving your static timing around seems to have an effect on when the trans locks up. It may help the on/off feeling when driving on the freeway. I think it works by more load being shown to the transmission on lighter throttle when the ignition is advanced. There is a link from the ECU to the Transmission CPU which transmits the current load on the motor to the Trans I believe. If you hear a tinkling noise kinda like noisy tappets its called pinging and you are too far advanced for your petrol. The repair will be expensive if you leave it that far advanced. I used to hear it on light throttle but it would stop if I gave it more throttle so its not just when you are giving it the berries that you may have problems. I had to retard it to stop the pinging.

Na its customised, they removed the grill badge.

Have a compression check or leakdown test done to see if the headgasket, valves, rings etc are OK.

I have a mines in mine which is pretty much stock in every other way. I find that it pings on small throttle applications so I have to retard it enough to get around the small throttle pinging instead of under load. The better the fuel the less trouble I have. Mines looks like it has set up a english email support on its website. I haven't given them the details on my one yet but I will. I believe they set them up for your application when they are first purchased. So they are set up for turbo A, cam B, etc

DaveB The way your trans cooler was mounted with the hose fittings at the bottom will trap the air at the top of the cooler and not allow the oil to pass through all of the cooler fins. This is why the standard cooler is mounted with one fitting at the top and one at the bottom. It allows the air to bleed out of the cooler. I would suggest putting the hose fittings at the top.

If you remove the front shaft and experience no vibration when you go for a drive, then the problem is the front shaft. If it still vibrates the problem is elsewhere. If it changes the vibration you have a problem front shaft and a problem elsewhere.....maybe..... I replaced mine with a 2nd hand GTR shaft from SSS. $220 The GTR comes very close to the selector cable on the auto box. I had to fiddle to stop them rubbing but it hasn't rubbed since.

Stage-ay I reckon

Does anyone know of any methods to do a wheel alignment in their garage and what sort of accuracy is possible?

My bet is on the drive shaft uni's.

Transmax Z sounds familiar. There are a number of threads on this and again it seems to come down to personal preference. I used Penrite ATF synthetic. The summary.pdf specifies Nissanmatic fluid D and I believe this is available and reasonably priced from Nissan dealers ie $60 for 4 litres. The files are for an R32 GTR but it should lead you in the right direction. summary.pdf bleed.pdf troubleshooting.pdf wiring.pdf

I have no idea where the pressure switch is but I would recommend bleeding the system. I got the info on how to do it from some other threads but the jist is to jack the car up, get the ignition on to get the atessa pump running, bleed the air through the nipples above the rear diff, and and the rear of the transfer case from memory. Viola no more 4WD light coming on. I did this because on a hot day I could give the car bootful coming out of an uphill hairpin which guaranteed the Atessa system would kick in. (Under controlled conditions on a closed course of course). By the time I got to the top of the hill the light would be on. Bleeding the system stopped this from happening. The fluid to use to keep the reservoir topped up as you bleed is the same synthetic ATF as the auto. My relay ticks every 15seconds when idling on my S1.

If it has oil temp, volts and boost you will need an oil temp sender and somewhere to mount it in the oil. A remote filter usually contains some access points. You will also need the GTR, GTS MAP sensor. This monitors the pressure at the back of the inlet plenum. The S1 plenum normally has a pipe with a rubber boot over it. This is the point that the GTS's used. The sensor was mounted in that drivers side rear coner of the engine bay. The volts are easy as well as the lighting. If you can get the plug for the back of the gauge you will save yourself a lot of heartache. I have not looked at installing the gauge with the torque split.

You may have a cracked exhaust manifold? Some mention was made of it here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...0&start=240

If your BOV vents to atmosphere it may be drawing air through your map sensor which the ECU will supply extra fuel for. The result of this is unburnt fuel in the exhaust which ignites. ergo jihad.

1. The engineer at nissan who designed the motor that controls the fresh air/recycled air flap - The pulsar and the stagea both went click, click, click, click, click, click, click, click, click, click, click, click. Testicle clamp time for you buddy! 2. Trying to figure out how many different ways to hang the cargo net. 3. Son of the recycle flap engineer that designed the oil filter position.

The following may help. It is from the R32 GTR so the Engine ECCS pinouts will be different, but the voltages and wiring should be the same. r32.pdf r32voltage.pdf

When you drop one it sounds more impressive on leather.

There is a tool you can buy which looks like a large two prong fork which tapers down to a point. You put the fork between the steering arm and ball joint and belt the end with a lump hammer, like a wedge it forces the ball joint out. It saves a lot of heartache. I don't think there is a spare parts shop I've been in that wouldn't have one of these on the shelf. It will wreck the rubber boot on the ball joint when you remove it but it sounds like your ball joint is shot anyway. The tool comes in two or three sizes.