mr manfringinsen

This looks like it will fit. Anyone tried them? http://www.justjap.com/parts/new/gauges/dinpanel.jpg If it accepts 52mm gauges then it has to be at least 54mm high. The DEFI is 50mm high and made of unobtainium by the looks of the price. http://www.nippon-seiki.co.jp/defishop/pro...n/din_spec.html

parts list http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=61606

I think the series 2 does monitor the boost at the ECU but the series 1 doesn't. They both run an R34 style of ECU but the series 1 is the only one to run the older RB25DET with this ECU. This means a few changes such as no facility for oil temp monitoring etc. I would follow wolverines advice.

This is my flogged out old shaft from in front of the transfer case. It didn't have a needle left in it. I went to SSS in Giraween and got another from a R32-GTR for $120. It had a little stiffness in one axis already. You can see the size difference between the two. I don't think it would be any stronger as it still cuts down to the same diameter as the original. The extra diameter gave me grief when I was fitting it as it has about 1mm clearance from a banjo fitting for the transmission cooler line. But worse for me it was hitting the selector cable at the back of the box. There was a little balance weight which hit a sleeve which guides the selector cable around the back of the transmission. It took two re-assemblies and two pieces of skin to get it all correct. The selector needed adjusting for length at the shifter after I had finished. I expect that the manual transmission had a lot more room for this shaft but the auto is really close to the shaft. If I have any more grief with this hitting the box I will machine the old shaft to accept some replaceable unis of some description. PS if you are occasionally having trouble getting the car out of park with the pushbutton not disengaging the shifter, adjust the length of the cable just under the centre console.

Start with the basics and look at power steering pump belt tension, Oil level, freshness etc

Which one let go?

My car has the shudder in the transmission at constant speed. It felt like a failing uni joint at first, (count how many there are of them under there!!). I noticed the shudder was there when sitting at the lights in D and it dissapears when in N. It can be made to dissapear by backing off and coasting. Another symptom I have is when giving the car a bootful from a 15km curve that climbs out of a gorge. If I do this on a hot day it turns the 4WD light on and goes into 2WD. My first check was for the level of the ATTESSA system. This can be found in the back on the right hand side behind the little door. This should be checked when the ignition is on and the ATTESSA pump running and probably on level ground. My second check was to bleed any air out of the pump and transmission. This is done via a pair of little bleed nipples when the pump is running. One is above the diff (hard to see at first but it is there). The second is just at the back of the transmission housing. There was a fair amount of air in there. My third check was the transmission fluid level. This is done after the transmission is warmed up, in N, on level ground and idling. It is checked with the dipstick on the firewall. None of these things have fixed the problem. My next move is to replace the transmission fluid and filter, and replace the ATTESSA fluid by bleeding the fresh fluid through as it had muck in it. I believe the transfer case has its own sump. I have to investigate how to refresh it's oil. The oils to use can be found in the maintenance or parts section in this very forum.

1.5x1.5x3.14=7.065 point missed

Has anyone ever used the solid alloy cradle bushes? It makes sense to me to lock the rear cradle in place to control the rear wheels through the control arms alone and get rid of the compliance in the suspension but I'm sure I'm not the first to think of it. Does it transmit too much NVH into the car? Does it crack subframes? does it make you feel warm and gooey inside?

Check your ignition timing is 15 to 20 degrees. Mine stalled if it was retarded. Easy to check, easy to fix.

It'd be fun with a motor running a lot of boost if they got rid of any boost limitation. At what level of boost does the standard ECU begin to go into R&R?

He already has with his thread on the jaycar fuel controller and boost controller. I should be able to do the same with this. My only caveat is if mines got rid of the boost limit and the solenoid fails closed with the jaycar boost controller installed, there is nothing to stop the turbo from boosting until something gives.

I had a problem with the ignition timing on my stag which led me to trying to get my ECU into diagnostic mode. (I still intend to post the definitive guide to timing but I've yet to time my car, it's showing 40 degrees of advance but it's not pinging and probably closer to 15 to 20 in reality). but I digress. This is what I have in my car. see pic. From what I can find http://www.mines-wave.com/ it appears to remove the boost limit, 180kph speed limit and generally alter the ignition and fuel curves. I thought it was just a plug-in chip on the standard ECU, but the case doesn't appear to have the little screw associated with diagnostic mode(s) that the Nissan ones have. The case also has two pieces of mines anti-tamper tapes on it. It doesn't say VX-ROM on it anywhere either but I assume that is what it is. Does anybody have some hard and fast facts on this box? Is it a modded standard ECU or a dedicated Mines unit? thanking you in advance.

I would love to go for a run but I think I've got every weekend booked until somewhere in the middle of January!!

This link may come in handy. http://not2fast.wryday.com/turbo/maps/

I thought it was a salesmans trick as well. I've just heard that Japan is legally entitled to turn back the odometer 100000kms on cars for export. Makes sense as my car feels like a car with 170000kms instead of one with 70000kms. I haven't researched this to find out if it's true so I am hoping I'm not starting a vicious rumour which will blow this thread out to 80 pages.

They are what is termed a normally closed solenoid ie; they LIKE being closed, it's their natural state. I understood it to open as you apply duty cycle ie. 100% = open 0% = closed I asked because I noticed that you were aiming for approx 60% duty cycle instead of 100%. That may bring back the slight surging you felt on the freeway when you needed a little throttle uphill. It would reduce your resolution by limiting the duty cycle to 60%. I guess what I am asking is why do you wish to limit it to 60% PS I think you have spent more time answering questions than it took to build, install and test the unit.

If a tee was placed inbetween the solenoid and the wastegate actuator which had an orifice equivalent to the upper limit of boost you want to run and was fed from the inlet. Would this not provide the protection from excess boost? or am I now describing a parallel system. Is there some problem with running these solenoids for extended periods at 100%? Are they notorious for overheating or are you just being cautious.

I drove that car on the Thursday, went back to look at one with a sunroof on the Monday and said I'll take the one from last Thursday. That's when Hiro-san told me he had sold it. damn, damn, damn. It was a good ride in that car on the Teins and a nice sound out of that pipe. Well done. I ended up buying the S1 with the sunroof and cast Nissan mags that look like they came of a maxima or somesuch. I am very bloody happy with it.

The usage of nitrogen in tyres on race cars that I have heard of is to allow the use of a cold pressure reading as a starting point to achieve a desired hot running pressure. The pressure of the tyre can vary between 3 and 4 pounds between cold to hot due to the water in the air. This is alluded to in the toyo link above when they talk of `dry air'. Thus the use of nitrogen eliminates this aspect of variation in race preparation so that grey matter can be spent elsewhere.