Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey i was wondering if ne one know any body that can make me a new imobiliser or something because i have lost my keys and imobilisers for my car and is there anyone out there that can come to me and make an imobiliser for me ? if ne one knows thanks

CHeers

Chi

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152231-lost-keysimmobiliser/
Share on other sites

if ya know how to disconnect the immobiliser thats on it all you need is 2 lenghts of wire and a toggle switch.

find the power lead to your ignitor cut it and join 1 peice of wire to each end (preferably where you cut the wire is in a fairly concealed location) then other end of wires hook up to the toggle switch which you have mounted hidden somewhere in your cabin.

its not a true immobiliser but an ignition kill switch .

i have done this on every car i have ever owned.

thats a cheap fix for you but better would be taking it to an alrm place and getting new alarm/immobiliser installed

Have you still got a remote?

Only way you can clone them is with learning key fobs from jaycar or dick smith if they sell them. They only work for non code hopping remote though and you need a working remote to clone.

I'd say you'll have to rip it out and get a new one

hmmm would that cost alot of money?....nah i've lost the entire key/remote... like now i can't even start car up liek as soon as i open door the alarm just hits off and like yeah but i have the key for the black thing inside my car which is the alarm :? but how much outa interest would it cost to get a new system similar ?

Cheers

Chi

  • 2 weeks later...

Dont know if I want o help after getting the myspace finger LOL

Get some I.D together and your rego and head down to a nissan dealer and tell them the story...theres another thread form like...2 weeks ago in the WA section, someones bro works at one and could help you out. As for the alarm, when you got the car you should have got some paper work to let you know what alarm it was. If your in the RAC call them, if bnot join and away you go. Then spend some coin on a better alarm with a good install.

It's alll sorted. Dad went all crazy wire chopping, got her started and went to Ashley Electrical where Mr Andrew fixed it all up and everything is working!

now just to get some house keys so I can get inside....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...