Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Errrr man... u have the bottom end listed as $4500... and the top end listed as $3300 which comes to a total of $7800 if purchased seperately.

But you want $8300 for the lot... now thats cool if thats how you wanna do it, but usually its a discount not an increase if you take the lot, thought you mighta made a boo boo somewhere.

Also im pretty sure you mean an RB30E Series 2 Block... as far as i know there was never a twin cam version of the RB30 ever released, hence the point of doing the conversion.

(plz dont think im taking a shot at you either, just thought if you fixed up those couple of errors might help ya sell it, looks like a real solid package, good luck with your sale)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152746-sold/#findComment-2840868
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Bottom end is sold as of last week. I still have the RB25DET top end, and have added a few more parts... so the revised list of whats available now is:

RB25DET Series 2 head with <80,000K on it, pressure tested, lightly shaved, cc'd, re-surfaced valves and cut valve seats. VVT Head.

Standard camshafts, rocker covers, lifters etc

Tomei oil restricters

87mm Tomei 1.5mm stainless steel 3 layer grommet head gasket. Lowers compression to 8.2:1

Genuine Greddy intake plenum with all the accessories.

Greddy intake and exhaust cam gears.

Polished and blue anodised billet fuel rail designed to accept 14mm injectors and adapt the Greddy side feed injectors to 14mm top feed injectors.

ARP head studs

6 x 650cc delphi low impedance injectors, 14mm to suit rail and plenum configuration mentioned above. All new.

$4500 the lot.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152746-sold/#findComment-3022605
Share on other sites

I cant remember what i paid for it. I think it was about $1800 or $2000. Horsepowerinabox sell the same turbo for $2350 so i either got mine cheap, or the prices went up.

I'd accept $1800 for the GT3040R. Its specs again are 0.7/0.82, and it requires an external gate.

Edited by GTST4Newbie
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152746-sold/#findComment-3027661
Share on other sites

Afraid not... but I do have a brand spankin' new GT3040R 0.7/0.82 700hp garret turbo. Its still in the shipping box, never opened. That was for this engine as well...

It's a 600hp turbo (not 700hp). I have the same spec turbo on my car - good piece of kit :happy:

Good luck with the sale :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152746-sold/#findComment-3029757
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...