Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

attempted the white dial mod to dash cluster last nite

took 2 smokes straight and i had it done with all the green caps removed and reinstalled (did it in carpark whilst eating hj's as i always carry 3 toolboxes with me full of tools (just incase!))

only problem... they were a yellow tinge... so today took cluster out again and installed phillips ultravission hyperwhite/blue globes...

the cluster is now super bright - i love it... however it now has a green tinge due to the factory dials green coating... so im wondering how to fix this? it has been mentioned to use thinners on the dials to remove the green?

any recommendations?

look closer at the pic i supplied up top there is no green on the cluster... he has removed the factory green on the dials... will thinners work and not f**k shit up? what to use?

  • Replies 73
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

only problem... they were a yellow tinge... so today took cluster out again and installed phillips ultravission hyperwhite/blue globes...

the cluster is now super bright - i love it... however it now has a green tinge due to the factory dials green coating...

In the same boat, the cluster looked orange, so I used three T-10 Narva Arctic Blue bulbs and the green coating is now visible. I couldn't find anything T-5 sized though, except for these Monza LED bulbs, but I chose blue and it actually coloured that part of the dash blue. :)

I'm hoping this green coating comes off with a wipe of thinners :(

i hope so too as im super keen to get uber white

also noticed that 1 of the smaller bulbs (not parker size) lights up the speedo from 120-180... so everything on my dash is bright and tinged green apart from that part which is duller and yellow

also noticed that 1 of the smaller bulbs (not parker size) lights up the speedo from 120-180... so everything on my dash is bright and tinged green apart from that part which is duller and yellow

This is the T-5 bulb that I was talking about, I'm gonna go looking in other auto shops today for something suitable.

led bulbs look shit... just want normal white

went to autobarn - narva do have t5 sized wedge bulbs... i picked one up $2 each... its just normal white not arctic however they said they do do a super white led t5 size - which i will try after i try this normal narva t5 bulb... i really dont wanna use led's as it will mean having to replace all the phillips ultravision ones i just bought and wont be as bright...

just need this green coating gone - whats the go???????

tried to remove the t5 bulb from its holder... it wont come out! not without breaking it... and had a better luke at the new t5 bulb i got which is just basically a new factory normal one so i dont think itll do much

sent the mrs off on a mission tomorrow to find an ultrawhite t5 to match the t10 phillips ones ive put in

she also came up with the idea of tinting the clear plastic cluster cover in 20% tint... so shes doing that tomorrow (hope it doesnt turn out shit!)

ok i finally got home from working on my car, i tried the thinner thing and it works.... but i wouldnt suggest it because it works on the plastic too lol, if your very careful it will look good , i didnt have another part to the cluster to try prepwash on but i think that will do the job perfect. pics in the morning... its sleep time now :D

when f**king around withe my cluster again last nite

i noticed on the back of each dial up to about 80 it is green... then 90 to about 130 or something the lines are white on the back... then green again to 180... wtf?

take pics of the back of the actual dials removed from the cluster? how did it go getting the white and green off? also that shit doesnt feel like it would come off... it sounds like a zipper when you run your fingernail over it

SCORE!

gf did browsing on the auctions this morning. 90-91 cefs had completely different clusters with factory white... i just purchased one now which will be here in 2 weeks... tacho goes up to 9k instead of 8k aswell

no more dicking around with factory cluster

now we wait... if anyonelse wants a late model cluster i can get several more... pm me :action-smiley-069:

ill put pics up tonite of one

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car remains in paint jail. I am now pretty convinced that the whole "RB25 Airboxes are kinda limiting to ~300kw" could be a thing. Also saw a good video from Engine Masters: (Sorry for FB link) (https://www.facebook.com/watch/?ref=search&v=761771519471924&external_log_id=c10bcbb6-2c39-4ff3-9240-287e9921fde6&q=Cold Air Considerations) Where they tested Pod Filter sizes and kept adding bends to a LS3 on an Engine Dyno to find if bends caused power loss. It's a good video worth watching - They did lose ~25hp from making an intake which had 3x90's and a 120 degree. They only lost maybe 1hp with a basic 90. I feel that by sealing up my airbox I have: 1) Created the same restriction a stock airbox would have. 2) Created a very convoluted set of intake 'pipes' by forcing all the air through the ducts. So I am pretty confident I'll be going full circle and have a huge hot air intake pod and actually see a benefit. The air does *not* stay hot once it gets flowing, aided by the ducts, and the pod can then pull air from anywhere. All the posts of yore talk about the stock airbox costing 10-15kw at 300kw+ but you know what? I f**king would very much like that 10-15kw and I remember my own pod filter in engine bay experiences. Turns out the GTT Reo and Headlight brackets really don't allow you to mount GTR items, no matter what the internet says. Various brackets have had to be made up to actually make it fit right for the front bar. Also some idiot mounted a 3L Accusump right where the bumper wants to go, so that has had to be 'relocated' To where, I am still not sure, but it's supposedly mounted in the pictures and I can't see it.
    • Sounds like the oil pressure light is wired into the oil temp sensor... As it warms up, resistance on temp sensor reduces, hence more current can flow and the dash light gets brighter.
    • Got the front subframe and suspension in.    
    • If it's cold in summer, then no issue. If it's cutting out every few seconds and you're not reaching your target temp, then there's an issue. One could be the pressure switch and the other issue could be the temp probe inside the evaporator.
×
×
  • Create New...