Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

had 3 gauges put in today into centre console below single din head unit in a r33. before gauges were put in there was no engine noise or anything...really clear and great sound but after gauges went in there is the constant buzzing which increases as revs pick up but only through the front right tweeter. no other speakers just the front right tweeter. then started mucking around with it and if i turn the tweeter half a turn to the right it turns off then half turn to left turns back on like an on off switch...i have no idea.

what could it be? i'm lost because its only the tweeter and no other speaker? any ideas?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154461-buzzing-noise/
Share on other sites

hi guys,

had 3 gauges put in today into centre console below single din head unit in a r33. before gauges were put in there was no engine noise or anything...really clear and great sound but after gauges went in there is the constant buzzing which increases as revs pick up but only through the front right tweeter. no other speakers just the front right tweeter. then started mucking around with it and if i turn the tweeter half a turn to the right it turns off then half turn to left turns back on like an on off switch...i have no idea.

what could it be? i'm lost because its only the tweeter and no other speaker? any ideas?

cheers

Probably line interference.

The hard bit is working out where, tweeter cable is run to close to a main power, or possibly even a tacho line.

If you got it professionally installed take it back, tell em to fix their mistake, and they shouldn't charge you unless theyre dodgy.

EDIT: im dumb, rerouting of the gauges lines is whats needed, at least away from your tweeter wire.

Edited by infamous_t
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154461-buzzing-noise/#findComment-2877298
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...