Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

heya,

Just finished putting the rb30 together and i'm having a few issues.. the car turns over but hesitates massivly to fire, the only way to get it to run is to give it a bit of throttle, and even then it's sketchy, it's either give it throttle and watch it rev up, or back off and she dies.. feels really like a boost leak issue, except it will actually rev when given throttle, although been over it many times and can't find one nor hear one when it actually does turn over. when it does turn over it is running massivly rich (black smoke), so i was thinking that perhaps one of the cam gears has slipped when i was tightening it up and is now running an extra tooth retarded or something, i guess this will be the next thing i'll check but i'm stumped for idea's.. it's obviously getting both spark and fuel as it turns over.. any advice would be great

thanks alot guys,

mark

:blink:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154936-rb30det-idle-issue/
Share on other sites

heya,

Just finished putting the rb30 together and i'm having a few issues.. the car turns over but hesitates massivly to fire, the only way to get it to run is to give it a bit of throttle, and even then it's sketchy, it's either give it throttle and watch it rev up, or back off and she dies.. feels really like a boost leak issue, except it will actually rev when given throttle, although been over it many times and can't find one nor hear one when it actually does turn over. when it does turn over it is running massivly rich (black smoke), so i was thinking that perhaps one of the cam gears has slipped when i was tightening it up and is now running an extra tooth retarded or something, i guess this will be the next thing i'll check but i'm stumped for idea's.. it's obviously getting both spark and fuel as it turns over.. any advice would be great

thanks alot guys,

mark

:blink:

Check that injector o-rings are in properly does it sound like there is a massive air leak??? Also what injectors are you running and what duty cycle did you set them too?

hey again,

really sure there's no boost leak, no hissing, been over it all including intake manifold.. as for specs, running a power fc (swapped back over to stock ecu but no luck) stock injectors, stock afm, stock turbo, fmic.. checked timing and it's all okay.. really starting to stump me :S

try screwing up the idle adjuster screw a little... check AFM & TPS, vacuum leaks, and also if the car sat a bit make sure the fuel isn't stale, maybe throw in some injector cleaner... i had an RB30DET do the same thing. but after it ran for a bit it came good...

hrmz.. fuel is 3 months old at the most, would it go stale this quickly? sort of starting to feel like it might have a misfire once it get's revving.. i just get this feeling that the base timing must be out, but it all seems to check out

trying to brainstorm a few other idea's and i'm thinking that perhaps the AFM is dirty.. fair bit of oily smoke was flowing out through it when the last bottom end let go so i'll give it a whirl tomorrow

perhaps in addition to this, check the DIY section for the repairing gtr AFM's thread, so you can check the dry solder joints within the AFM

afm checks out as okay, swapped it in with another one and still the same problem :laugh: while fooling around wtih the afm's i though't i'd cracked it when the car held idle by itself indefinently hunting around (pretty badly i might add).. also noticed that if i can manage to hold the revs almost steady then the blow off valve is continiously sounding, even though the throttle is open..

well, got overly enthusiastic tonight and pulled the whole intake down from the plenum to the turbo, gave everything a good clean, went over it with a fine tooth comb, then cleaned all of the electrical plugs.. put it all back together and she's running.. still a bit rough but i've yet to properly setup the timing, so a win for the rb30det at last >_< thanks for your help guys, much appreciated

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...