Jump to content
SAU Community

Ductwork

Overcenter

By Overcenter,
in Fabrication

 Share

Recommended Posts

Overcenter Rookie

Overcenter

Posted
Posted

Here is some simple fab I did on my personal S13. The ductwork is highly effective in keeping temps down on the street and the track. The shape of the duct help speeds up the air as it passes thru the core face. By sealing up between the IC and the radiator my water temp average about 175-185F. It's a good addition to any car that is in a hot climate. Good job on the fab forum, its nice to have a place to come less the typical interweb drama.

DSCN0109_full.jpg

DSCN0110_full.jpg

DSCN0113_full.jpg

DSCN0198_full.jpg

This is a cheap and easy project that could be adapted to any car. The duct is made out of 6061 T6 .063" thick. I bent the curve in the aluminum by pulling it around a parking pole.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156651-ductwork/
Share on other sites
Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted

thanks Kevin, that look a treat and will be doing something similar to my car when the new motor and IC go in.

have you any shots with the bar attached to the car?

and regarding the seal between the IC and radiator - how did you run the mounting to give an idea to the rest of us :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156651-ductwork/#findComment-2911393
Share on other sites
Hardman69 Collaborator

Hardman69

Posted
Posted

Noice1 Craved ! I think I'll have to put a lil' panel between the very bottom of my I/C and the bottom of the radiator, to stop air bleeding out between the 2 cores.

On the 37deg. trackday I did at winton, 3 hot laps in a row saw the water-temp up around 110Celsius plus ! ! !

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156651-ductwork/#findComment-2914155
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Hardman69 Collaborator

Hardman69

Posted
Posted
just a side thought, wouldnt you be cutting off fresh air to the radiator as well? or do you think the air passed through the cooler is sufficient..

It wasn't really any better or worse. I was worried that air that'd been crammed through the FMI/C by the front bumper intake, would bleed out the bottom of the gap between I/C and Radiator - into the lower-pressure region behind the front bumper.

The PowerFC showed a peak water Temp of 116deg.C this time . . . . 8-O

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156651-ductwork/#findComment-2979990
Share on other sites
Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted
It wasn't really any better or worse. I was worried that air that'd been crammed through the FMI/C by the front bumper intake, would bleed out the bottom of the gap between I/C and Radiator - into the lower-pressure region behind the front bumper.

The PowerFC showed a peak water Temp of 116deg.C this time . . . . 8-O

116 degrees is way too hot - was this at a track day? looks like you need a radiator flush or a bigger alloy one

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156651-ductwork/#findComment-2981603
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      Quieter performance exhausts (or muffler add-on options)

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • f00stx
      Quieter performance exhausts (or muffler add-on options)

      By f00stx · Posted

      So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • GTSBoy
      New kid on the block

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Songo
      New kid on the block

      By Songo · Posted

      Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...