Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As per title I have a Brand New Front bar, (has just been test fitted but no holes drilled). It is ready to install.

It has been prepped and painted by M&C Doyles.

I bought it for my car but I need to buy some injectors and other bits so unfortunatelly this has to go,

the bar itself costs $320 + N1 slots $70 for the pair + the prep and painting, you do the maths.

I am asking $500$400 firm, for pick up here in Adelaide.

Alternatively we can get to an agreement for interestate buyers

So, people with a white R32 looking for a GTR front bar, look no further.

post-18416-1171685326.jpg

I can get better pics to those interested, or you can come in and have proper look

Cheers

Ric

Edited by Richo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156753-r32-gtr-front-bar-white-new/
Share on other sites

PMs replied, thanks for the interest but I dont want to send it interstate at this stage guys.

Ill see if it sells here in Adelaide first , if not, Ill think about sending it interstate

Cheers

Ric

Hey Ric

If you really need it gone, I can organize to get it sent interstate for ya. When I sent mine off it was $80 to VIC (or NSW, cant remember now), including up to $1000 insurance (I figured bars are a bit fragile).

PM me if you're keen

Edited by salad

Hey Showza!

Saw I couple of vids of you at the G1, nice work! Too hot for me, sometthing always goes wrong when I take mine out on a really hot day.

Yeah man that would be good, I have a couple of people interested interstate, it looks like noone wants one here in Adelaide.

Who is this with? TOLL ?

Cheers

Ric

You can always come for a drive and pick it up, you know Adelaide is quite nice this time of year :)

kinda got a bit of a cash problem at the moment man, also im livin in bathurst cause of uni and the cars in the garage in syd because i lost my licence. in a bit of a shit situation. ill let u know 4 sure in a week or so weather 2 send it over or not. still very interested

Price is right IMO, the only way you can get this bars is through Autobarn at a crazy $750 not painted.

Or JustJap if they still make them at around $550 again not painted.

this one is ready to install, suits a white R32 buyer, thats why is taking time to go.

I am not in a rush. thanks for your interest, buddy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
×
×
  • Create New...