Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK

sys

JVC double din dvd unit

Clarion 6.5 " splits

Clarion 2 channel

Clarion Mono

Clarion Dual voice coil 12 inch

My problem isnt engine noise (hum/buzz) but more a (tick) not all the time maybe once every 2-3 minutes like the noise you make with your tounge on edge of teeth.

Any ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157312-weird-noise-problem/
Share on other sites

hmmm thats pretty weird... does it happen on CD's AND radio?

does it happen with the engine both on and off?

anymore details would be handy... though im sure one of those guys that works in a car audio shop will just come in, blitz me, and give you the fix in about 10 seconds :sick:

Is this with the engine running? Or can you hear it when the engine is off and the volume low?

If it is with engine running it may be a DC electrical spike which doesn't affect the engine or the cars computer but can affect audio and alarms. Check all main power connections from battery to amps are tight and battery to chassis and battery to alternator and ignition coil connections, also battery power is another main cause for bizzare audio problems the best car audio performers always look for where they are going to install all the batteries before they look at where the subs are going. A stiffening cap might absorb the ticking noise. If the noise is heard with engine off and low volume it could be the noise floor that your listening to which means your amps are turned up to full position which means they are too small, the higher the gains are on an amp the greater the reduction in optimum audio range.

First you should see which speakers you get the noise from by just removing rca's one at a time it will narrow the problem down, if it is all speakers then you know your amps are good, then try 2 30amp or higher ground loop isolators in line before each amp remembering there is no guarantee on resolving noise problems over the internet, unless I can hear it, so you need to experiment a little.

Leon thanks for your tips and yes it is only when the car is running and seems to be the same at any volume. I recently changed to a larger amplifier and now found the ticking is worse. The ticking does not change as the car revs though

Is this gunna help?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/40-AMP-CAR-NOISE-FI...1QQcmdZViewItem

Is this with the engine running? Or can you hear it when the engine is off and the volume low?

If it is with engine running it may be a DC electrical spike which doesn't affect the engine or the cars computer but can affect audio and alarms. Check all main power connections from battery to amps are tight and battery to chassis and battery to alternator and ignition coil connections, also battery power is another main cause for bizzare audio problems the best car audio performers always look for where they are going to install all the batteries before they look at where the subs are going. A stiffening cap might absorb the ticking noise. If the noise is heard with engine off and low volume it could be the noise floor that your listening to which means your amps are turned up to full position which means they are too small, the higher the gains are on an amp the greater the reduction in optimum audio range.

First you should see which speakers you get the noise from by just removing rca's one at a time it will narrow the problem down, if it is all speakers then you know your amps are good, then try 2 30amp or higher ground loop isolators in line before each amp remembering there is no guarantee on resolving noise problems over the internet, unless I can hear it, so you need to experiment a little.

Edited by skipppy

turn the gains on the amp down and see if that helps... I had a noise problem the other day, turned the gains all the way down, readjusted my levels on the head unit, now its clean... dunno why the gains were up so hi, i think one of my mates must have been fiddling... :)

If it does help, youve got a leak somewhere... could be the RCA's or a miriad of other things... but it could also fix the problem to a point where it doesnt play the noise anymore...

also, you didnt answer my question about CD's or radio... it sounds like the cd player... when the laser moves and performs and action, that will leak through the RCA's as a DC signal into the amp, into the sub... turn the gains down, get new RCAs if that doesnt work...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From my youth: GTi-R clutch change is a massive pain. The gearboxes are fragile? But the car is super cool and I want one 馃槩 
    • Remember this is 1988 tech.
    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
  • Create New...