Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey,

i am just after some photos or some results of front facing plenums. Basically doing the cut and shut. I need cooler piping done also. I'd like to find someone in the eastern suburbs.

Who does anyone recommend?

I'd like it to look like for an out of the factory job, meaning good clean welds. i have seen some really bodgey ones, and thats not what i want.

If its a workshop, i''d get them to mount the cooler, piping and everything.

I have heard of racepacemotorsport in bayswater.

Basically looking to take it to a work shop as it will be done in quicker time, by the pros.

cant be stuffed mucking around, waiting for people anymore.

But like someone who knows there stuff, no backyard job.

thanks heaps.

cheers.

Hi dabigbolf, arhhhhhhhhhhh moving the throttle body to the front, very risky. Really stuffs up the airlfow distribution. I know some people swear by it, but I have seen a lot of holes in pistons

and crushed ring lands. Let's just say it worries me.

I have personal experience with a car that had the throttle body moved to the front. We replaced it with a standard upper manifold and it produced 15 rwkw more and had much more even exhaust gas temperatures across the cylinders. That's a good indication of poor distribution and leaness in number 1 and 2 cylinders.

Some people like the idea of reducing the length of the pipework from the intercooler to the throttle body, and that's a worthwhile thing to do. You get about a 50% reduction in pipe length. We prefer to use a 120 degree bend 120 mm from the throttle body and cut out the 2 X 90 degree bends and the 45 degree bend in the normal across behind the radiator pipework. This gives a reduction in length about half that achieved by moving the throttle body to the front.

I first saw this pipe layout on the Gibson R31 GTSR a long time ago and cringed, but it worked OK for Fred. So a few years later I tried it and it seems to be a good compromise.

We have also used a Sub Zero upper manifold with good results on a drag car. Due to the size of plenum (it was almost 6 litres in capacity) distribution seemed to be OK.

Hope that helps.

I agree with Sydneykid as i was going to do the same mod myself when putting the to4 on, but when i cut the front of the plenun off and looked in the hole you realise that the first 2 runners cannot get a good airflow, even when under pressure there has to be a fair amount of flow difference. The stock manifold is pretty good when you look inside and see how all the air is distributed.

Also a interesting article in the new Zoom mag, they put a rb20 in a vr commo i think and modded the GTR manifold and throttle bodies on to it, after it was running they were not happy with the way it was running so they fitted the stock setup and it ran better and made more power.

bingo... we have a weiner :)

yeah tho your colors are around the wrong way :(

are you going to use a new pipe to the throttlebody or re-use the factory cross over pipe?...

i am using 2 1/4 piping front turbo, flares up to 3" intercooler inlet exits at 3", tapers down to 2 1/4, joins a step up pipe that is 2.5" then joins the factory cross over pipe.

i dont know any real pro's or con's of my method, but it was suggestted by 2 workshops and my brain... and it works fine for me.

Having said that.. after going flat out for a while, parking the car.. the pipes heat soak abit, but within 40seconds of driving inlet temps are back to 23-25deg

well colours were just to tell the diff.

butyeah they are round the wrong way.

i dont want to keep the facotry crossover pipe.

i'd probly use 2 and 1/2 inch piping all the way.

u are using stainless or mild steel or alloy.

i have been sugguest alloy is the best. but most expensive, but stainless is to heavy and costly.

mild steel cheap and not the best unless hpc coated.

Thats the same way i have set my pipes up as well, im not sure if there is any benefit but keeping the cold pipe shoter has to reduce the inlet temps a bit.

What material to use is often debated and many people have different ideas. Some say alloy some Stainless, my idea is that you use alloy out of the turbo to try and dissapate some heat, then use ceramic coated mild steel from cooler to the inlet to try and insulate the cool air. But then again hot air travells faster so it may be better just having ceramic coated pipes all round.

well if you read the new zoom mag it tell u how to do it properly and it states that if u use steel piping there is realy no advantage by using ally, also the air inside the piping is moving that fast that even though the piping on the outside might be a little hot, the air inside the cooler piping doesent have enough time to heat up because its constantly moving,so really theres no point in putting your piping the other way, id say the best way would be to come straight out of the throttle body then do a 120degree turn{like sydneykid said) and then go down and out to the cooler as this is the shortest route

both ways will use very similar lengths of pipe, its just the air flow direction

i dont care if i wasted my time.. it works and i am happy

i reckon you picture the way you want your piping, a front facing plenum would be ideal.. but is it worth forking out the cash now to save $50 on piping or do you be happy with routing it back like everyone else.

either way it WILL work, and in a silvia.. it WILL be quick :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...