Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all i was needing some help setting up my gizzmo ibc i done a search on this topic and found some helpful tips but it still don't work so has anybody else got one of these and know how to set up boost pressure.

from i can understand on the instructions it say i gotta hold the desired boost for half a second so that it stores in the memory of the ibc, that sounds kinda wrong to me.

any help would be greatley appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157554-gizzmo-ibc/
Share on other sites

What issue are you having with it, installing or actually setting the desired boost level?

There are 2 settings, duty cycle (boost level) and gain response.

To set boost level:

Hold top button for 5 secs, enter desired level (start low), say 18 (note this does not mean 18psi).

Once its set, dont touch any buttons for 5secs, you'll then here the solenoid ticking, at this stage you need to drive the car in a spirited fashion under load and then see what the boost reached.

If not happy with the boost level then start the cycle again gradually raising the duty cycle.

This is what I had to do with mine, not sure if the newer model has changed.

But I had to drive the car to set boost, as the fuzzy logic learns your turbo setup.

To set gain response is the same as above, but hold the bottom button.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157554-gizzmo-ibc/#findComment-2926003
Share on other sites

OK well I have one, and just about know the full ins and outs on this thing, have been stuffing with it for about 6 months.

Ok the way the controller works is to set a desired solenoid duty, this is how fast it opens and closes, the higher the number the higher the boost.

HOWEVER the number does not relate to boost directly. For example, 14 duty, does not mean 14 psi.

The controller is limited to what gate you have. If the stock gate is preset to 7psi, lowest setting you can run is 7 psi.

The way to preset the controller is as such.

Find a nice stretch of road, LONG and 100kph plus.

1) Hold down the top button for 5 seconds. Once this happens it will flash the number to preset the duty. For an R33, 10psi is about 45 duty, but this differs.

2)press down on the top button until the desired duty number is reached. START with 10.

3) After the duty has been preset, wait 5 seconds until the IBC goes back to monitor mode.

4) Once in monitor mode, take the car for a run, you need to load the car up good, so a WOT run in 2 and 3 will do, but you will go wayyy over 100kph so be careful. While accelerating keep an eye out on the boost to make sure you don't over boost.

5) after the run, press the controller top button, this will go to setting 2 for boost, then press the down button to go back to the previous boost setting. This will display the maximum boost reached.

6) If the boost reached is low 7psi, increase the duty of the solenoid, and then go for another run. Continue to do so until you reach the desired boost level.

Repeat step 1 onwards again.

7) If you want do this for 4 different setting. Just as an EXAMPLE on my car with all the mods listed, following duty corresponds to each boost 25=8psi, 35=10psi, 49=12psi, 67=14.5psi.

NOW once you get the duty set, it's time to set the response. This sets how fast you build boost, too much and you will over boost, tooooo little and it will be laggy.

1) Select the desired boost memory to work on.

2) Hold down the bottom button for 5 seconds

3) Once in the setting mode, increase the number. Start low say 5 and go from there. The higher the number the faster the boost will build.

HOWEVER

The number depends on boost reached. At 7 psi you will need a higher number to build fast boost, as the turbo is not very efficient at this low boost. So for example at 7 psi the response might be 30 but at 14 psi it will be 2.

If you set the response too high, the car will surge, the boost will rise and drop VERY fast, back off on the response for that particular boost setting.

HOWEVER if you have a mismatched wastage, and you have boost creep, you can minimize this by allowing some over boost on the controller. So what you do is set the response higher, so that the turbo over boosts, but by the time the IBC has reacted the wastage creep has caught up and boost remains steady.

IF you have BAD CREEP issues, reduce the DUTY of the solenoid by 4, and increase the RESPONCE by 2 or so. This will allow for some moor creep control by intentionally over boosting the initial boost setting.

Basically you want to set the response in such a way, that the gate opens 1 psi before the desired boost is reached, this can only be done by trial and error.

WHEN setting the response, you do not need to go for a drive and boot it, it will work itself out during normal driving.

SO I hope this covers it. HIHIHIHI

If anyone has any question PM me, I don't know if there are many people that have as much experience as me. I really went to town on this thing, as far as getting the functional description from the manufacturer to see how the thing works. LOL.

ALSO

Edited by WogsRus
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157554-gizzmo-ibc/#findComment-2926668
Share on other sites

Forgot to add.

In Cold weather, you will have to reset the duty, colder air easier to compress, hence higher boost setting will occur, as the boost controller always monitor boost settings, so if you preset it to 12 psi, but on a cold night reach 13psi, it will always then try to go to 13 psi.

This is same for most controllers, which sux. BUT i found the gizzmo works well, sure it has it's downfalls, mainly that the boost can change depending on temperature, but it is fast, easy to use, well once you know how to and has great closed loop controll.

Same goes for hot eather, hot weather means harder to build boost, so lower boost.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157554-gizzmo-ibc/#findComment-2926712
Share on other sites

hi all tried everything you guys explained, but i came to realise that even with both the duty and gain at minimum i'm still hitting 19.2psi and that's with me backing off when i see how high it's going, i'm wondering if maybe the solonoid isn't working i'm hoping anyway so i can take it back for a refund, anyway if anyone knows any other reason why it is not doing it's job please let me know.

thanks all.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157554-gizzmo-ibc/#findComment-2937091
Share on other sites

no if the selenoid was stuffed, IE in the open position, then you would only get what ever boost the wastgate can hold. on an internal gate. Not sure externally.

I must admit my first controller i recived was stuffed, had a bad solder as it didn't always controll boost. LOL>

Might be a falut, but i have never used the gizzmo on an external gate.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157554-gizzmo-ibc/#findComment-2937173
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...