Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Originally posted by Sydneykid

...Dirty injectors restrict fuel flow, that would improve fuel economy and increase risk of detonation.  I have seen dirty injectors increase power as the car was running rich.

Wouldn't dirty injectors REDUCE fuel economy if it's "peeing" rather than spraying?

Hi mtam22, "Wouldn't dirty injectors REDUCE fuel economy if it's "peeing" rather than spraying"

Not really, the lambda sensor would see the unburnt fuel and the ecu would reduce the flow. Plus the engine would run really badly as the fule would still be un-atomised at the time of ignition and would not burn properly. Missing and very poor power delivery are signs of this.

I have seen injectors so dirty that they stay open, this fills the cylinder/s up with fuel overnight. When you go to start the engine next, it hydraulics and bends conrod/s.

This is way past what is being described here, what what we seem to have is either a stuffed lambda sensor or very poor tuning. Both of which would show up with a 5 minute power run on the dyno with the fast and wide lambda sensor up the pipe. As I said, cost less than 1 tank of fuel to check.

Hope that clarifies.

Originally posted by mtam22

Wouldn't dirty injectors REDUCE fuel economy if it's "peeing" rather than spraying?

they can, but I think SydneyKid is saying they get blocked and the amount of fuel being pushed through is less than a clean injector. Hence leaning out the mixtures and pushing more power.

  • 1 year later...

i dont know all but we have a different state of tune. ie if i get more than 300km to a tank im happy, i would be happier if i got more.

I put it down to i few factors that some have over looked

1. advanced ignition timing

2. gt30

3. bigger fuel pump

4. tuned computer

5. 435rwhp, power is not free

Generally with a blocked injector (one cyl leaning out) you will get less fuel economy as when cruising the o2 sensor measures the afr over the whole 6 banks. If you are getting one injector running lean then the rest will be required to run rich in order for the overall afr to be within spec.

Thats the way I see it but maybe I am wrong?

I have recently found that I have a leaky injector which causes the car to splutter the next morning for the initial kick.

If left for a week without a start the car will not start and will stall with anything less than 2000rpm on board.

I think the car does make good power as it accelerates hard and I think for an RB20 goes pretty well.

magic1,

It is very possible to get near stock fuel consumption even with 300rwkw.

It comes down to the amount of time spent tuning the computer (assuming powerfc) and how well the injectors atomise fuel at low duty cycles.

Headwork also makes a slight difference.

For example if they have polished the inlet ports or used an 80grit.

The rough inlet port creates a little turbulence which improves fuel atomisation hence power especially at low and mid rpm.

Then there's the combustion efficiency. If you have slapped a thicker headgasket on the car to reduce the compression then this will increase the squish gap which effectively reduces turbulence hence atomisation and power just before the fuel/air is ignited.

Lots of things to consider.

A bloke sky30, I think thats his alias.

He recently went a GT35 and has decreased his fuel consumption.

Second hand word is that he is now getting near 500km's to a tank.

Prior to the GT35 he was running a highflowed RB20 turbo that was making 240rwkw with all the boost on board by 2000rpm (RB30DET), I would like the know the fuel consumption prior to the gt35 turbo.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I've had too many issues with knock off's on the BMW's. I don't want to do a job twice or more because the parts are shit.
    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
×
×
  • Create New...