Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For sale: 2000 R34 25GT S2 sedan

transmission: Tiptronic auto

Kilometeres: 103,000km atm (still driving the car)

Colour: Pearl White - QT1

Features & Mod

* dual airbag

* auto headlight

* ambient temp sensor

* ABS

* Keyless entry, central locking

* Climate control

MP4/DVD player

Pioneer Jap navigator + Monitor

Nismo white side indicators

Serviced every 5000km with fully synthetic Castrol 5W30 engine oil and Nismo oil filter

New tires

New pads

Time to sell the R34

Personal import at May 2006, I am the first owner in Australia.

The car has been serving me very well as a commuter, drives nice and smooth, pretty head turning, too.

60L of fuel (95 Octane) will get me 550km

She is in good Condition, No accident History and Genuine Kms

Auction Grade 3.5 with B interior

Was graded with a minor push in at the right rear guard (as seen in Pic, no paint lost)

Without the dent it will be easy grade 4 or higher

This one of the cheaper, if not the cheapest, R34 s2 on the market

Reason for sale

new job in CBD, bought a bike as my commuter

Contact Details

Email: tin0005 at gmail dot com

or PM me

Location: Adelaide

Asking $14000

or

swap for a hatch / wagon + cash

post-1812-1173263503.jpg

post-1812-1173263512.jpg

post-1812-1173263537.jpg

post-1812-1182172855_thumb.jpg

post-1812-1182172873_thumb.jpg

Edited by Maxx
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159538-2001-r34-25gt-s2-sedan/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 5 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 4 months later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 11 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...