Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok heres the problem

I hit a bump, and BAM

Shit started smoking, adn through elimination its #1

WHen you unplug the fuel injector it is fine, smoke goes away

plug it in, smoke city

it runs on 5

when i plug #1 injector in, it wants to die in like 2 seconds flat, and will only stay running, barely with some throttle.

all 6 plugs have same appearance

all 6 cylinders have same compression, wiht no loss within 5 minutes of pressure.

i cant figure this shit out.

any ideas?

I also swapped #1 and #2 fuel injectors, same problem

i haevnt done the coil packs yet.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159627-i-lost-a-cylinder/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

*yep, all that suspension expertise is REALLY paying off now*

Sounds like a spark problem - try swapping over the coil packs to be sure and have a really close look at the casing when you are doing it - a break in the plastic coating could be shorting out the spark.

Also check all the obvious stuff like ecu plugs, injector connections etc.

Just be careful - if the piezo is stuffed you may be pumping raw fuel into your turbo (which would explain the smoke) and that won't be doing thebearings or seals any favours whatsoever.

it was tyres,not suspension. He told me he knew everything already,so I haven't seen a need to reply to any of his threads since. I have a theory for this one as well,but since yokota knows better than us,I'm sure he'll find his own answer.

Justin...

I dont think you guys should be so facetious, he asked a valid question and asked for help. I am sure if this was anyone else he would've not got the responces that he has.

So either post helpful things or dont post. We are not 5yrs old here and this is not a playground, so grow the f up!

I dont think you guys should be so facetious, he asked a valid question and asked for help. I am sure if this was anyone else he would've not got the responces that he has.

So either post helpful things or dont post. We are not 5yrs old here and this is not a playground, so grow the f up!

Oooh, testy!

I was just making the point that having lowered the car so much, restricted suspension travel and removed any cushioning effects offered by a sensibly sized tyre sidewall, the chances of anything going bang over a bump is greatly enhanced.

I was not being facetious. I did try to offer some help so back the F off! Blanket statements like that don't do anyone any favours.

and have a lovely day..... :D

Oh, and Yokota's, when you do get this sorted, make sure you at least check and clean the O2 sensor in your 'zorst because right now it will be coping a hammering.

Edited by newbie101

my suspension setup has nothing to do with me hitting a huge ass dip/bump in the road retards.

shit happens, and im trying to fix it.

when you push boundaries shit breaks. its part of the territory

But, im slaving 6 coilpacks form another r33 tomorrow to see if it fixes it.

it should just be a bad coilpack hopefully

Look, i fit the wheels, suspension and everything works

Its not a perfect ride, but se, i know it wouldnt when i did it

You guys said it oculdnt be done, i did it. now dont be sore asses and deal with it.

and i just found out a friend with a 32 GTR had the same problem and it was a coilpack....after hitting a bump....with nothing near as low as my car.

even if i have a series 1 stag?

but on a sidenote, who cares what caused it (a huge dip int he road), lets try and focus on the answer. I dont know much about rhe RB series motor, which is why im asking about it

my suspension setup has nothing to do with me hitting a huge ass dip/bump in the road retards.

No, but what you did to the suspension WILL have an effect on how your car deals with the impact

You guys said it oculdnt be done, i did it. now dont be sore asses and deal with it.

Nobody told you it couldn't be done, you were just told it would be impractical, cause more drama's down the road and cost you more money and heartache. If you continue with the pedantic whining know-it-all attitude you will be finding it harder and harder to get useful information from anyone here. I'm just glad I don't have to deal with it - you do! :P

If you need any help with the RB series engine and diagnostic, post here

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...php?showforum=8

and show some of them guys the same smart arse attitude - see how far it gets you.

look, its not know it all

its that i know what i can do with a suspension

whether its ideal, practial, honestly doenst really matter. Most things i do arent really the best.

But i know it works, its not efficient which is why i am workign on a custom coilover setup

But when on an engine issue such as this have i been know it all?

I havent, so it doesnt belong in the thread

for all i know the bump might not have had anythign to do with it, or it could have. But shit happens, and im willing to pay for it, i just am looking for ideas to help me figure out how much i have to dish out.

but on a side note, i do apologize if i did piss anyone off, or come off as a know it all

I just am a smartass by nature, 4doorwhore knows it

Im hardheaded, and work at things until i get htem to work...its just how i am

i do apologize if i did piss anyone off, or come off as a know it all

I just am a smartass by nature, 4doorwhore knows it

Im hardheaded, and work at things until i get htem to work...its just how i am

what? who are you?? :) haha

WHen you unplug the fuel injector it is fine, smoke goes away

plug it in, smoke city

That does't sound like a crook coil pack. If it was, there would be no difference between having the injector plugged in or not.

Sounds like the injector is being held open the whole time. Try to get a dwell meter or CRO to check the injector pulsing on that injector. Sounds like it's holding that injector open the whole time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...