Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I planned on doing the dry ice method but somehow ended up using the old hammer n chisel + turps to tidy it up.

Took me about 3hrs to chisel out the entire boot then splash some turps over it and leave it for 10mins then brush over it with a toothbrush and wipe off with a towel and this is the result:

post-1296-1188719577_thumb.jpg post-1296-1188719604_thumb.jpg post-1296-1188719638_thumb.jpg

lol

i just did this in my r32 with the dry ice method

was going to write up a "write up" lol but no use for 2 hey

i decided to leave mine where the trans mission tunnel is,

just so it dosent become a permenant heater

also putting back the carpet :)

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

Just to add my 5 cents to this having done this today. (pics to come)

I had around 10kgs of dry ice and was cleaning out the interior of my a31 cefiro.

Previously ive had goes at chipping the sound deadener off the parcel tray and id managed to get the rear tyre areas done, the back seat area and one of the back footwells. All up in total i probably spent 5-7 hours.

Im a bit of a cheap prick so thought this was the way for me and i was only using my time.

I have now tried the dry ice method and its absolutely superb and id never even consider doing it any other way.

In my opinion you couldnt get away with doing a car with 6kgs. I had 10-12 kgs and obviously didnt have to do the whole car and i still probably need another kg or 2 to finish the driver and passenger footwell bits.

Once the dry ice is on and it starts crackling thats the time to start chipping. I found even by banging the floor with a hammer it would break and then you could attack it with the chisel and it would break off in massive chunks.

You will find you need to either have lots of dry ice or move it around a lot as areas with little concentration are almost as hard as the chisel and hammer method.

So id reccomend a good 10-18kgs for a 4door car, but the results are definitley worth it. Id imagine you would save a great deal in solvents alone removing the remains of your chisel effort.

Ive filled up 2 rubbish bags worth of sound deadening + plastic trims and there is easily a good 30kgs in there. With the carpet a lot more. Ill weigh everything once im done.

Edited by SirRacer

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
    • There is a warning that "this thread is super old" but they ignore that anyway...
    • With 10% Ethanol, we're talking 2-3% fuel consumption difference. The emissions reductions and octane boost in my opinion far outweigh this almost non existent loss.    My tanks sitting at 80%. Luckily that should go down fast as I'm on vacation again for the next two weeks. 
×
×
  • Create New...