Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just wondering whether power steering resevoirs need to breath to avoid vaccum??

i've installed a custom one and the previous owner (which i have no reason to doubt) is telling me it wasnt needed, yet i think its caused a leak with my power steering pump.

the standard ones obviously breath as many people know due to their leaking and the one i have has a screw on lid. any ideas? i've got no issue about drilling a 1mm in the lid which is what im thinking about doing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160162-power-steering-resevoir/
Share on other sites

Not sealed? ;)

Which engine is this on?

If the PS pump has crapped out, putting a hole in the lid won't fix the problem.

I think you'll find the reason that so many people experience issues with leaking, is because most people are still running the original hoses, which have understandably perished over time.

However, I'm always happy for people to prove me wrong, it's all in the interest of learning :O

haha im not hoping to fix the problem by putting a hole in the lid.

ill try explain myself better... the standard resevoir leaks while doing some track work and hard cornering so i pressume that the lid is not air tight, now after installing a custom resevoir which has a screw on lid which is air tight the power steering pump pulley seal is stuffed, since i have reconditioned the pump and going to install it. now what i think is that due to the lid on the resevoir being sealed is caused the pump problem and to avoid it im thinking about drilling a hole in the lid.

its an rb20

Edited by silver gts-t

I know bugger all about the RB20, (can't be too different from the other RB's) but from watching everyone elses issues, I'd say that the leak was caused simply by age.

If the original lid had a dodgy seal, it wouldn't have been creating the type of pressure that it should have been, and as soon as it was under the proper amount of pressure it's just gone "BLEH"

(If that makes sense)

I'll stop with the guesswork now, and leave it to someone who knows their stuff >_<

The power steering system should be only pressurised between the pump and the solenoid on the steering rack.

If the entire system was pressurised then you wouldnt be able to open the lid to top it up without it releasing the pressure and spraying fluid everywhere, in addition to this a perished hose would split and the offending leak would be a spray instead of a simple weeping of a small amount of fluid.

i cant say 100% that the use of a vent in the resevoir is what is required here only that the assumption of the system being completely pressurised does not seem correct.

Is it only when you are on the track and doing fast cornering etc? becuase i have heard, and im not 100 % on this, that people put a sock over their reservoir to avoid leaks, aslong as the leaks arent coming out of any of the lines or rack, or pump, then it isnt anyhting major

haha im not hoping to fix the problem by putting a hole in the lid.

ill try explain myself better... the standard resevoir leaks while doing some track work and hard cornering so i pressume that the lid is not air tight, now after installing a custom resevoir which has a screw on lid which is air tight the power steering pump pulley seal is stuffed, since i have reconditioned the pump and going to install it. now what i think is that due to the lid on the resevoir being sealed is caused the pump problem and to avoid it im thinking about drilling a hole in the lid.

its an rb20

did you guys read this?

it clearly states that the issue that im trying to rectify is if the custom resevoir has caused my PS pump to leak.

i know the standard resevoir leaks and its for this reason it has been changed.

Anyone know if the return line to the bottle will have enough pressure to go to through a trans cooler infront of the rad then up to the resevoir?

i think it does as i once started the car with the resevoir off and sprayed everything with trans fluid LOL

just trying to confirm

did you guys read this?

it clearly states that the issue that im trying to rectify is if the custom resevoir has caused my PS pump to leak.

i know the standard resevoir leaks and its for this reason it has been changed.

Obviously, IF FLUID DOES NOT HAVE A RELIEF IE A WAY OUT TO RELEIVE THE PRESSURE WHICH IS USUALLY VIA THE LID ( WHICH ACTS AS A BREATHER) DURING AN INTENSE TRACK SESSION THEN OBVIOUSLY SEALS WILL BE THE FIRST THING TO GO....as they are the weakest link

I think common sense would indicate if the power steer system never leaked before except for the lid during a track day, then suddenly you changed a variable that it would be the cause. Or the first component you would look at.

I personally wouldnt drill a hole in the reservoir as tiny bits of crap/dirt might make its way into your fluid. Could possibly try and find some sort of breather kit maybe....

Also would appreciate it if you can remove the patronising tone. :wave:

Anyone know if the return line to the bottle will have enough pressure to go to through a trans cooler infront of the rad then up to the resevoir?

i think it does as i once started the car with the resevoir off and sprayed everything with trans fluid LOL

just trying to confirm

I think it would, you would just have to increase the amount of fluid in the system.

Obviously, IF FLUID DOES NOT HAVE A RELIEF IE A WAY OUT TO RELEIVE THE PRESSURE WHICH IS USUALLY VIA THE LID ( WHICH ACTS AS A BREATHER) DURING AN INTENSE TRACK SESSION THEN OBVIOUSLY SEALS WILL BE THE FIRST THING TO GO....as they are the weakest link

I think common sense would indicate if the power steer system never leaked before except for the lid during a track day, then suddenly you changed a variable that it would be the cause. Or the first component you would look at.

I personally wouldnt drill a hole in the reservoir as tiny bits of crap/dirt might make its way into your fluid. Could possibly try and find some sort of breather kit maybe....

Also would appreciate it if you can remove the patronising tone. :laugh:

there was no tone at all, it was a typed question.

i know that it was the most probable cause as i previously said here "i pressume that the lid is not air tight, now after installing a custom resevoir which has a screw on lid which is air tight caused the power steering pump pulley seal is stuffed"

i was just asking for opinion as there maybe something else to the whole system that i may have missed.

also would appreciate it if you didnt pressume my tone :)

  • 3 months later...

Hi Guys, need advice on this problem.

I recently fixed a leak power steering hose on the top of the pump couple of weeks ago. The warning sound appeared everytime when started cold. Quite a comprehensive job as the steering rack had to be remove. Anyway after replacing with a 2nd hand part (still in good condition) but handling still suffer as it was harder turning left than on the right. After 3 weeks and still figuring out whether the alignment shop did a proper job, i found the the cap opened (half tilted) with no fluid down to the white filter in the reservoir. But there was fluid around the reservoir and the hose behind the power steering pump (a clamp is used to tighten it).

1) Is there air bubble or pressure pushing the lit up?

2) The clamp may not be tighten properly that air has got into the system?

3) The power steering pump needs to be changed?

Appreciate everyone's feedback.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, i’m making a rb25det coil loom for Vag short coil. Can anybody tell me which Ecu signal wire belong to coil number 1 and 2,3,4,5,6? The connecting switch in above pic is 8 wire i think white is for +12v and black for earth.
    • Was there ever a model of the Stagea m35 that didnt have a badge on the grill? I thought I saw that somewhere, some aero edition or something? I cant find it again? davemoto
    • Its a 2002 vr-x four VQ25DET, silver. Coil overs, lowered, polished alloys and sport exhaust. Bit of a project, was sitting in a shed for a while but runs and drives great.
    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
×
×
  • Create New...