Jump to content
SAU Community

Change Cams And Other Upgrade Questions Yes I Have Researched Before Asking Question Help Please


Recommended Posts

Hello

I am new to tuning. I have a Skyline r32 gts-t stock except for the exhaust which is a sports exhaust.

I want to make my car at least 300hp.

Dont know where to start.

Somethings I have seen and read are change cams, fuel injectors, fuel pump, turbo.

I want to change cams but dont know what I am looking for. I read and have been told to get used GTR cams, I have checked Japanese websits such as Tomei, and seen upgrade cams. But dont know what to do. What else do I need if I do that? What will it help do?

Also I have been told that any mod requires a tuning of the computer to make the car run right. So does this mean that any change or mod you have to have the computer tuned? If so, how do people afford this if they are constantly modding their car. What is a cheap computer to get? Can I get my stock computer upgraded?

Please help, I have researched and asked questions, but everyone tells me a different thing here. I want to do this but where do I start? I am American but live in Japan

Help please.

Edited by 335

std R32 gtst ECU can be chipped and tuned

Cams would not be the first thing you do - look at the slide turbo upgrade thread for results of his highflows,

turbo injectors fuel pump should be the first things then tune

std R32 gtst ECU can be chipped and tuned

Cams would not be the first thing you do - look at the slide turbo upgrade thread for results of his highflows,

turbo injectors fuel pump should be the first things then tune

Cool, I know Austrailan prices are alittle different from Japanese prices but what do you think the cost of rechipping my ECU cost? and How far can I have it rechipped?

Also dont have tons of money so need to be cost watching so how much do you think a good but not expensive turbo should cost and should I get aftermarket turbo, injectors, fuel pump and intercooler or should I get used GTR parts?

Do I need to rebore my block(I read something about this)

My car has only 95000 km on it and has not been used for racing.

Thanks

Help

ok, reboring the block is an engine rebuild - so no you dont need that unless it has issues.

GTR front mounts are good, but usually the cheaper kits from just jap etc are just as good and come with the piping you need

gtr injectors are good upgrade on the cheap - but need ECU to do this

Remapped ECU - Dr Drift based in Melbourne does them . AFAIK around $600 and up for a tune

start with a front mount and a boost controller - bout $600 ish if you install yourself

then save up for the rest :) dont rush into it and read around a bit cos i dont think you looked too hard :laugh: try the rb20 dyno results thread at the top of this section for a starting guideline

ok, reboring the block is an engine rebuild - so no you dont need that unless it has issues.

GTR front mounts are good, but usually the cheaper kits from just jap etc are just as good and come with the piping you need

gtr injectors are good upgrade on the cheap - but need ECU to do this

Remapped ECU - Dr Drift based in Melbourne does them . AFAIK around $600 and up for a tune

start with a front mount and a boost controller - bout $600 ish if you install yourself

then save up for the rest :) dont rush into it and read around a bit cos i dont think you looked too hard :laugh: try the rb20 dyno results thread at the top of this section for a starting guideline

Ok so I should keep stock injectors, fuel pump and just go with a front mounted intercooler, bigger turbo(rb25?) and ecu rechip and tune? How far will this boost me?

Do I need to change to a sports cat, and down pipe?

Thanks

go 2 the rb20 turbo upgrade thread and go from there. it depends all about your budget. Basic Mods front mount intercooler, POD Filter( is your option though) fuel pump, dump pipe (which is from turbo back), front pipe (after the dump pipe), Racing Cat, Cat-back Exhaust (after the cat converter) RB25 ( From R33 Serious 1 or 2 R34 GTT). and remap ecu. dont think about boost too much boost will better running in 12psi in save area.

Im not too sure wat power will make but will be very close to wat u aim for.

Goog Luck

Mick

go 2 the rb20 turbo upgrade thread and go from there. it depends all about your budget. Basic Mods front mount intercooler, POD Filter( is your option though) fuel pump, dump pipe (which is from turbo back), front pipe (after the dump pipe), Racing Cat, Cat-back Exhaust (after the cat converter) RB25 ( From R33 Serious 1 or 2 R34 GTT). and remap ecu. dont think about boost too much boost will better running in 12psi in save area.

Im not too sure wat power will make but will be very close to wat u aim for.

Goog Luck

Mick

Ok so will start getting parts and saving money. When do I need to replace ECU? What is a Aplexi S-AFC, a Power FC ?

THanks

when u get injectors bigger turbo then get ecu, safc is a piggy back which is measure air and fuel mixtured and power fc is a proper ecu which u can tune what u want. im a fan of power fc and microtech. power fc has 3 differents model which is normal power fc, power fc D' Jetro ( which is u dun need air flow meter) and power fc pro.

Hope these will give u more idea.

Good Luck

Mick

Speak to Quicny777 and use the same turbo as he is. Speak to your local tuners and go with whichever ECU they claim to be able to tune the best for you. Be it Power Fc, Microtech, remapped std ecu , WOLF etc are all the easy options.

Standard cams are fine for your target 300hp, just get a good 80mm exhaust, interciooler, bigger injectors and a good tune. You will make 220rwkws reliably and easily

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
×
×
  • Create New...