Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

Has anyone dropped in a Toyota JZ engine into a ceffy? What is involved with it?

I'm thinking about replacing my rb20 with a 1jz TT from a soarer as it is long in the tooth now.

I know a lot of guys have done the conversion with s13's.

1JZ's seem to be pretty cheap comapred to a SR20 or RB25/26

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160742-jz-ceffy/
Share on other sites

1jz is cheap and better than 25

but the 25 conversion is much easier , which realy is one of the main advantages of the cef , its ready for any rb very easily

having said that its not that hard and the 1j is an awesome engine . the soarer turbo setup sucks though

Edited by arkon
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160742-jz-ceffy/#findComment-2986052
Share on other sites

what you save on purchasing the Jz will spend and more on the conversion

talk to some mechanics on the cost of converting first

remember that although the SR or RB maybe a 500-1000 more expensive to buy, it is a straight fit

im thinking to shoehorn a toyota engine in a nissan is a few grand enterprise

Food for thought

RellikZephyr

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160742-jz-ceffy/#findComment-2986054
Share on other sites

there is a guy in SA you can buy mounts off for $120 which allow a direct bolt in for a 1JZ onto an S13 X member, Ceffy X members are worth a shiteload more cash than S13 ones, so you can probably get your $120 back on that with no worries :rofl:

once that is done its a bit of wiring and some plumbing (as you would need with any conversion) and youre set...the only real expensive bits I can see are $1500 for an R154 (but you pay nearly that for an RB25 box which is weaker anyway)

I was seriously going to do this with a GT3037S Pro into my laurel if i didnt sell it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160742-jz-ceffy/#findComment-2987155
Share on other sites

there is a guy in SA you can buy mounts off for $120 which allow a direct bolt in for a 1JZ onto an S13 X member, Ceffy X members are worth a shiteload more cash than S13 ones, so you can probably get your $120 back on that with no worries :rofl:

once that is done its a bit of wiring and some plumbing (as you would need with any conversion) and youre set...the only real expensive bits I can see are $1500 for an R154 (but you pay nearly that for an RB25 box which is weaker anyway)

I was seriously going to do this with a GT3037S Pro into my laurel if i didnt sell it.

what about the opposite side exhaust/inlet etc?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160742-jz-ceffy/#findComment-2987332
Share on other sites

what about the opposite side exhaust/inlet etc?

what about it?

the inlet is no dramas whatsoever...as for the exhaust well a 1JZ has the dumps in the centre of the engine leaving you PLENTY of room for a decent front pipe and exhaust, if youre going a big single there shouldnt be any dramas either :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160742-jz-ceffy/#findComment-2988427
Share on other sites

Here's my 1JZ powered Cefiro... don't have a lot of information about dropping the JZ into a Ceffie, since mine was already installed when I bought the car. I do know that here in Thailand people can buy looms off the shelf to splice into the standard loom and then everything plugs straight in, no drama!

post-29700-1174233830.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160742-jz-ceffy/#findComment-2988544
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
×
×
  • Create New...