Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Everyone,

I am implementing a system similar to the HICAS system but on a formula SAE team race car, I was wondering if anyone could take a photo of the actuators for me and the whole system at the rear. I am trying to know whether or not i could use the actuators and motors from one of the skylines or 300zx to implement on the rear wheel steering.

Even better, if some one in the north eastern Adelaide area has one sitting around off of the car (since they often crap themselves) for me to look at breifly.

I am also still trying to see how it actually turns the rear wheels, any info or photos will help. i have been looking for photos for a while but cant find any decent ones on the net.

This is just the electrically controlled HICAS system i am interested in (not the hydraulic).

Not sure which skylines they were in but they were in the 300zx from 94 to 96.

Post any info on it as it may help other people that are having problem with their hicas system.

Cheers

Hey, that undercar pic i just found before reading this, must have missed that earlier. That helps a little. Cheers. We are encorporating 4ws (3 degrees on rear) on the car this year and are investigating the best way to get the car to turn and manuevour because our car sucked last year. I have been told to do it using electrically controlled solenoids, dc and/or brushless dc motors but have been struggling to find suitable (light) motors so far and thats why i am looking at the hicas system. (both for ideas and for parts) the main idea is to use the 4ws for tight corners where our speed would be less than 50km/hr because the tracks we race on have lots of them. (most tracks and roads skylines drive on dont so you may as well get rid of it.

Cars such as skylines are driven everyday mostly and these hicas systems dont last that long (ie less than ten years), and this car will be driven for a few hours each weekend and highly maintained plus I am hoping to do a better job at it then nissan engineers. (But they have produced some sweet cars!!!)

Thanks for the help so far but more would be awesome. (the hicas lock bar search just had replacement bars to get rid of hicas)

I still want to see inside of one of them units to see the gearing on the end of the main black motor.

also does anyone know how that motor is connected to the steering, im guessing just a spline but not sure.

Edited by slipperywhenboosting

Perhaps put a WTB post up in your relevant state. For an electric hicas system. Some people removes theirs entirely to save on weight. So they'd have them just sitting around somewhere. You might even get hold of one for free :( Then you can open it up and mod it all you want

You have a point there Dan, if anyone want to give me one to play with, i would be more than happy to pick it up in the adelaide metropolitan area. I am still wondering if it would be useful but i might be able to borrow one off of a contact at a japanese wreckers.

If I found out that it would be useful, i would buy one. Does anyone know how heavy this motor is?

If anyone reads this and has done something similar before, send me a PM, i would be very interested in speaking with you.

Edited by slipperywhenboosting

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...