Jump to content
SAU Community

Piggy-back Vs Stand Alone

KISIN

By KISIN,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

KISIN Veteran

KISIN

Posted
Posted

I searched and couldn't find a direct answer to my question(s). Im talking about an RB25DET NEO... :

What would you recommend, a stand alone engine management system, or a piggy-back system ? Looking at around 250rwkw on a SAFE tune. Which EMS would be better ? Maybe be pushing to crack 300-350 eventually, but not TOO MUCH more then that.

And the other question is, which models would you recommend in your choice above ?

I heard that the E-Manage can fry the coils on the NEOs ? Anything else like this that i should know about when moving on from a stock ecu ?

Any info is greatly appreciated.

KISIN.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161981-piggy-back-vs-stand-alone/
Share on other sites
HKS99 Collaborator

HKS99

Posted
Posted (edited)

if your chasing 300kw toward the end you might aswell go standalone. depending on how much money you actually want to spend will determine what sort of ecu you will be looking at? what sort of coin are you looking at spending? under $1000 look towards going power fc under 2000 motec

Edited by HKS99
KISIN Veteran

KISIN

Posted
  • Author
Posted
if your chasing 300kw toward the end you might aswell go standalone. depending on how much money you actually want to spend will determine what sort of ecu you will be looking at? what sort of coin are you looking at spending?

Well I'm planing on building a second engine so i wont need to get it done in a hurry in order to have my car on the road. Which means i can take my time, and I'm willing to spend extra cash on something that will benefit me in the long run.

satanic Grand Master

satanic

Posted
Posted

Get an HKS F-CON V Pro; you won't go back to anything else... and HKS99 does not know what he's talking about; you don't need standalone ECUs for big power... the world's fastest GTRs (top 10); 6 of them are all running this ECU.

HKS99 Collaborator

HKS99

Posted
Posted (edited)
Get an HKS F-CON V Pro; you won't go back to anything else... and HKS99 does not know what he's talking about; you don't need standalone ECUs for big power... the world's fastest GTRs (top 10); 6 of them are all running this ECU.

yeah depending where you are located.. you try putting a HKS F-CON V PRO in try getting it tuned in Gold Coast or Brisbane!

thus why i listed a power fc as there is never a shortage of tuners avaliable.

Edited by HKS99

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I neglected to respond to this previously. Get it up to 100 psi, and then you'll be OK.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • GTSBoy
      Help! Leak coming under transmission

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
×
×
  • Create New...