Jump to content
SAU Community

Apexi FC Tuned For $2200?


Recommended Posts

Guest 382 GZV - 4 Door R33

A reputable tuning house has offered to Fit and tune a Power FC for $2200 (doesn't include Boost Control as I know, have to check that). It is 2nd hand off one of his clients which he is helping him sell.

Is this a good buy?? Should I get this now? I was thinking of getting an autronic in September for $3800....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16266-apexi-fc-tuned-for-2200/
Share on other sites

Originally posted by 382 GZV - 4 Door R33

Where is Hardcoare Racing?

Do they tune them well? Has anyone had any problems with them?

Where did www98 have his autronic tuned  rb26dett?

there at slacks creek moss st... they tune my mates 10second skyline (plated NO JOB) and a few others... they seem to be good at what they do. There prices are well priced aswell.

I'm getting my R33 with new Apexi PFC + HC tuned by

Brisbane Tuning & Turbo Centre next week.

Will let you know how it goes.

They have been recommended by a few here already, so that is pretty good for me.

I will be getting it serviced as well - hope to get a dyno readout on the effect too.

I haven't got a quote just yet, I wanted to make sure that they handled a normal service first, which they confirmed after I called them.

They say it's going to take around six hours all up - this includes the service, apexi pfc install, and dyno tune.

Therefore I'm looking at around:

$300+ for labour :)

$240+ for dyno time

plus whatever for bits and pieces (oil, plugs, filters etc).

The prices above are a little generous, but I have to anticipate the worst.

Yes, I have heard both good and bad about the place - but the good far outweighs the bad, so this is good enough for me. They are on my way to work too, so this works in their favour.

I will be supplying the complete apexi pfc + hc manual in engrish for them in print form, at least that way they have that baseline to work from. From what I can tell, they are very competant with what they do.

Anyway, after all the searches I've down in this forum, there is no clear winner when it comes to a dyno tune in Brisbane ;)

All I read was a few comments about 3-4 places, a couple of which I have never heard of, and everyone had a negative remark or was unconfirmed.

So, I'm just going to go with my instincts, hope it turns out good :(

Guest INASNT

wtf?

u guys r getting ripped off!

i just bought a second hand pfc with new controller delivered for $1300. It costs $0 to install, just unplug stock ecu and plug pfc, it takes about 10 mins. As for tuning, it should take about 2hrs or so if u have alot of mods which will cost u about $200.

Guest INASNT
Originally posted by Torrens

Not getting ripped off.  The quotes I mentioned are part of a 10k service that will be done at the same time.

So how much is he charging u for the whole job, services included?

If u havent got bigger turbo, injectors, afm and r tuning for big numbers, then it wont take 2 long to tune. Just source the pfc yourself, install it yourself and get him to tune it and ask for a charge per hr it takes him. U know mechanics, when u come to pick the car up the will go on about how long it took them to do stuff when in reality they spend fark all time doing it, but still charge u for it!

Guest INASNT
Originally posted by 382 GZV - 4 Door R33

*INASNT

So which mechanic do you go to that charges $100/hr on a dyno to tune the PFC??

Can you put me in contact with whoever you got your PFC+HC for $1300? - I would definately buy it off them if I could get it at that price.

Steve

if u were in mel i could give u a dyno tuner for that price.

check your pm for pfc dealer

Guest 382 GZV - 4 Door R33

Thank you to all who helped in detering me from getting the 2nd hand PFC fitted and tuned for $2200...

After shopping around, I have found that you can get a NEW PFC, H/C AND Electonic Boost controller for less than $2k with tuning for only $300 or $400.

Check out Nengum.siteblast.com any of you who what stuff cheap - and let me know if you can get stuff cheaper than this site.

Steve

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
×
×
  • Create New...