Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey fellas,

Ive got 2 sets of rims for sale. Both sets without tyres and are in good condition, dont need em anymore. Im in Sydney

First set, 16 inch, no dings/buckles/cracks etc-, little bit of gutter rash, got about 4cm of dish, 5 stud multifit ie. 5 x 100, 5 x 114.3

$270

Second set, 16 x 7 inch chromies, no dings/buckles/cracks etc-, tiny amount of gutter rash not even noticable, chrome is flaking off a little bit near the valve stems, 5 stud multifit, ie 5 x 100, 5 x 114.3, +38 Offset no centre caps.

$270

P3310037.jpg

P3310038.jpg

P3310039.jpg

P4010041.jpg

P4010042.jpg

Edited by killabeez
hey, im interested in the 1st set, are they very heavy? (compared to say 33 stockers?) are spacer or hub adaptors required to fit on R33?

The wheels are wuite light, ill weigh one this arvo, I dont think spacers are required but ill have a look for the offset, if not ill measure it up and work out the offset.

The wheels are wuite light, ill weigh one this arvo, I dont think spacers are required but ill have a look for the offset, if not ill measure it up and work out the offset.

Wheels are around 9kg each, if they dont clear the brakes then ill give you your money back

Edited by killabeez
  • 2 months later...

shit forgot I had this thread up here, price drop people need em gone $290 each firm. I dont know what car they came off, I bought em for a subaru but got rid of the car before I had a chance to find tyres for em. looks like a fairly good offset tho with that amount of dish

mate whats the offset (1st set) and also with the stud pattern is it 114.3 or the flat 114? also willing to ship interstate?

Edited by cheez
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
    • And yes with a full tank it will hit limiter free revving or driving 6B6CDF6E-4094-426D-A9CB-6C553475FE36.mp4
×
×
  • Create New...