Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Series 2 Block Into R33 Series 1 Car... Not Starting -- Help!

Scooby_Steve
 Share

Recommended Posts

Scooby_Steve Community Regular

Scooby_Steve

Posted
Posted

Hi All,

A mate has a R33 Series 1 which he has had a Series 2 block installed. However, the car now will not start. The car just doesnt seem to want to kick over.

I believe he has a set of Spitfire ignitor coils for Series 2 and he has had the wiring redone on the ignition side so it is compatible with the Series 1 setup. Was this required? would Series 1 ignitor coils in conjunction with the Series 1 ignitor pack work with the Series 2 block?

I've also heard that the wiring for the crank angle sensor needs to be re-wired as well.. is this true?

Lastly, the only things i can think of that could be causing the problem is that the crank angle sensor is faulty or the immobolizer is kicking in. My mate did have an alarm on his car, however is now not working.

So if anyone can help out, it would be much appreciated. Thanks in advanced.

Regards

Steve

WogsRus Veteran

WogsRus

Posted
Posted

you can't use S2 splitfires and an ignition module from a S1. S2 have inbuilt ignitors so make sure that has been taken care off.

The S2 has a WHOLE heap of changes in sensors, i think i have a S1.5, a bit of both. The S2 cas is different to S2 and so forht. But aslong as the S2 block has all the S1 sensors, it should work fine.

Scooby_Steve Community Regular

Scooby_Steve

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Okay....

I pretty definite he's got S2 Spitfire ignitor coils and the wiring re-done..

I dont think he has the S2 ECU.

I dont think he has the S2 AFM but i'll double check.

Lastly when WogsRus says "as long as the S2 block has all the S1 sensors" ... is it as easy as taking it off the S1 block and putting it onto the S2 block? or is their re-wiring to be done?

Thanks again... probably cant do much till the weekend so anymore help til then will be great.

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted (edited)
If he has S2 spitfires he may need a S2 ecu.

no he won't. i have run a s1 ecu on a s2. he would just need to remove the ignitor pack, and have the wiring sorted.

was it just the block that was changed, or the whole motor, or a mix of parts? if it was just the block then it would be in the wiring of the coils. it may be that there is an earth problem with the coil wiring.

Edited by mad082
Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted

make sure your fuel lines are around the correct way too...

bit hard to give advise without being told what it is, and isnt doing when turning the key.

does it start after spraying carbie cleaner/rp7 in the intake?

Scooby_Steve Community Regular

Scooby_Steve

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Ok...update...

My mate is still running the S1 ignitor coils back to his S1 ignitor pack...Will this work?

So what the car is doing.. when the key is turned over you can hear the car trying to kick over but just cant make the last jump (ie almost almost almost nothing).

My mate that installed the block (a friend of mine and a mechanic) has done a rb25/30 conversion with forgies etc to his own skyline and its up and running without a problem. He's puzzled on what could be causing it.. he does think its immobiliser so i assuming he's checked fuel etc...

Tomorrow we'll go through checking earthing, loose wiring etc to see if we could find out anything. Lastly, as i mentioned above in my first post, is there different wiring between the S1 and S2 CAS? are you able to put the S1 CAS in the S2 motor? i believe they look different.

Once again, more help would be great. thanks again to all.

Edited by Scooby_Steve

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sinn3r
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By sinn3r · Posted

      Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • Kinkstaah
      Blue slip

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • GTSBoy
      Best place to order Authetic R32 Parts in Japan

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • GTSBoy
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • GTSBoy
      Blue slip

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...