Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HI,

Buyer Fell through, back up for sale. SOLD

Wold 3D V4 with hand controller + memory chip to store multiple tunes..comes in original box with harness everything instructions all complete..used for a couple of months(like new)..

Also come with warranty papers etc..

I also have receipts for all of this hardware totalling over $1700

I am also interested in a swap for a powerfc or haltech for r33gtst ecu rb25det...

Direct plug in for r32/r33 gtst

This was worth over $1700all up new..looking for $950. Also will post at buyers expense.

The wolf comes with a memory chip for mulitple tunes and also with the hand controller..

It has a current tune in the ecu for bigger turbo, injec, cams etc.

Wolf V400 Universal ECU - Kit with hand-controller.

post-28122-1176347129.jpg

Description: The kit contains:

1 x Wolf3D Version ECU

1 x Hand Controller

1 x Main Loom

1 x TRG 1 Loom

1 x IGN 1 Loom

1 x Air Temperature Sensor

1 x Engine Temperature Sensor

1 x User Guide

1 x Installation Manual

1 x PC Software Disks

1 x PC Link Cable

1 x ECU Mounting Brackets

1 x Warranty Card

1 x Wolf Window Sticker

Please send pm for interest....located in sydneys west

Cheers

Daniel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164231-fs-wolf-3d-v400-sold/
Share on other sites

The ecu was from my dad,and it is his 2 tunes in the wolf...

I am geting a ecu that my tuner is comfortable with this is the only reason. He can tune haltechs and power fc alot better then he can tune the wolf. You would want a person that can tune this wolf to get its full potential..

It is a fantastic ecu though...

Daniel

All pms replied to...

I am in the process of building up my car also so I have alot of time to choose an ecu..

The only thing I dont like aboutt the power fc is you have to run a AFM where as the wolf you do not...

Daniel

AFM isnt a bad thing, you could always use a dejetro power FC if u can afford it.

how old is this v400?

i looked on the wolf website and they only seem to sell v500 now but still have all the accesories for the v400.

do you know the load and mapping points or rpm points of adjustment for the V400?

thanks mate

This unit is 2 years old it comes with the memory chip to hold more than 1 tune .Its tuned for an rb20det running hks cams 264 deg,550cc injectors,ported head adjustable cam gears, 3" exhaust,highflow cat,and thurmo fan control, first tune was for 8psi boost ,2nd tune was for 22psi.made 238rwkw on 2nd tune did 3 dyno tune sessions and less than 100klms b4 I changed the setup .I know this because I gave it to him it comes in originial box with all revelant manuels hasn't been used since I gave it to him so its basically still new in the box

cheers Peter

  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...