Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

might be worth checking the injector if in doubt switch it with another cylinder. Comp test it and see what happens!

yeah im hoping it might be injector or injector solders or something

but gotta drive it home! cant leave it in the work car park over night!

but of a thud thud clank coming from under the car but thinking its the exhaust hitting stuff because its running so rough

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164278-ohh-nooooo/#findComment-3045332
Share on other sites

hey ed sorry for the simple q, but what are the signs that the engine has dropped a cylinder? would it be similar to an engine missing?

oh yeah.. got the coilpacks tues and went back to the old plugs and worked a charm, fixed my missfire.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164278-ohh-nooooo/#findComment-3045354
Share on other sites

It does sound like shes dropped a cylinder, The only thing you can do is comp test it and go from there really. Its not like an injector to just give way like that but it can happen.

If you have changed the plugs and switched coils etc its not lookin good. If you need help sourcing another engine or getting it fixed let me know. Got enough RB20 crap laying around to get it running again!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164278-ohh-nooooo/#findComment-3045364
Share on other sites

i did the injector wiring myself so ill give it a wiggle and see if it comes back to life, but im pretty sure i have dropped a cyl....

ill buy a comp tester from supercheap tonight and bring it back to work to test it...

reckon its safe to drive home through the cross city tunnel or will i just do more damage?

desperate for any help anyone can give!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164278-ohh-nooooo/#findComment-3045369
Share on other sites

wet and dry? dont i get some guage thing that i screw into the sparky hole and see what psi its got?

its just a 5min drive so hopefully she gets there!

i guess if it was something bottom end like bearings or what not i would dropped more cyls?

i know alot about cars but nothing about engine blow ups! never experienced one before

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164278-ohh-nooooo/#findComment-3045402
Share on other sites

compression test it first.

stick a rag on the end of a screw driver and put it inside the spark plug hole, if it comes out clean then you're safe. if its got oil in it its time for a rebuild.

or just check the spark plug for oily shit all over it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164278-ohh-nooooo/#findComment-3045413
Share on other sites

ok guys

bought a tester tonight, tested cyls 1 and 5 (problem cyl is 5) did a dry test i think its called and both read 150psi! thats a good thing isnt it! i still need to do a wet test...

checked spark yes, sparkies ok

im 65% leaning towards one of the injectors playing up, OR one of the injector resistors having a melt down seeing as it happened so fast...

the car is at work at the moment, can leave it there most of the weekend, so ill order the $25 resistors and go in with a multi meter and do the wet test...

phew glad she can hold some pressure!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164278-ohh-nooooo/#findComment-3046121
Share on other sites

I know someone not too far from you who can check your engine well and truly. All your cylinders will have the same comp readings, guaranteed...

...but the insides might look a bit mangled. His name starts with an 'H' and rhymes with 'vermin' :pwned:

Seriously though, hopefully it all turns out ok mate.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164278-ohh-nooooo/#findComment-3046155
Share on other sites

I know someone not too far from you who can check your engine well and truly. All your cylinders will have the same comp readings, guaranteed...

...but the insides might look a bit mangled. His name starts with an 'H' and rhymes with 'vermin' :pwned:

Seriously though, hopefully it all turns out ok mate.

how long have you been drinking for hahahahahaahahhah i totally didnt get that!!!

wont have much time to do the car tomorrow so saturday it is, just ordered new resistors so ive got a backup!

damn cars!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164278-ohh-nooooo/#findComment-3046160
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
×
×
  • Create New...