Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, I just bought a HR31 GTS that I've had my eye on for a while, but sadly it was defected a few owners ago. My goal is to get the canaries taken off (yes, canaries, it was re-defected while on a day pass, the bastards), and the car registered.

I'm in Strathalbyn, SA, so can take it to the Murray Bridge Inspection Station, which AFAIK means no emissions testing. It has a Haltek computer, but I'm not sure of the model, as its nicely stashed under the dash.

The things that are currently on my to-do list are

- Tie-Rod Ends (worn, and new ones sitting in the boot)

- Mount Pod FIlter securely (or do I have to try to fit an air box in there??)

- Sort out where to plug the tacho cabling into the Haltek

- Sort out a suitable speedo adaptor for the R33 Box (Going to try the Navara drive from this thread first)

- Perhaps dummy wire a stock computer (or another computer that looks the same, ie. S13 computer) so that even if yanked on, the wiring will stay in place (will this work? or do they test for connectivity?)

- get a rear windscreen wiper

- sort out various minor wiring and globe issues

Aside from these, I have a set of pads ordered, it has good tyres, handbrake works, factory steering wheel, correct offset and stock-size rims, Regency-proven Trust Exhaust, the number plate is back on the correct (right-hand) side.

Is there anything else that anyone thinks I may need to look at/get checked out before attempting the inspection?

Cheers

Tristan

Edited by guska
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166349-defected-hr31-roadworthy/
Share on other sites

re: gearbox

You need a 32 GTR Speed sender, and put the RB25 gear from its sender into it.

Then your speedo will hook up/work.

The Navara one won't work? I already have it ordered (forget exactly how much, but quite cheap, as I buy a lot from the guy).

What sort of $$$ would I be looking for a 32 GTR sender? Even 2nd hand is fine. I was told about a "RB25 adaptor for a cable speedo" which can usually be obtained from Kensai Automotive for around $300, but they haven't seen one for a few months, and I would like to be able to get around it a bit cheaper. The guy I bought the car from had one in it, but used it in his 32 GTS-T when he put a 33 box in that.

On another note, I actually took it for a decent drive today, and it's brutal!

SOmething I just thought of, it has a 2-way LSD, which 'hops' the inside tyre during full-lock turns, will this be a problem at inspection? I never thought to watch what the guy did when I sent my old UC Torana for inspection just to see how long he could make the list.

what about your shocks and springs... is it sitting at the correct ride height...

and what are your seat belts like... are they frayed at all?

also is there and structural rust in the car.........

any of these things and they will have a hissy fit and car wont get thru........

It's sitting at legal ride height (edit: I think), but it's stiff. Seat belts are all good, no rust at all! I'll take some pics either today or tomorrow, when I go and do the tie-rod ends. The car isn't at home, it's at a mates place who has a shed and is closer to Mt Barker where any work I can't do will be done, so I don't get to see it every day yet.

Edited by guska

GTR sender is around $150 second hand. Thats what i paid for mine.

The Navara one isnt a direct fit. You need to fark around with the gear wheel or something.

And if you dont do it right, its stuffed

Hence i just used a GTR one. nice and easy

I'll give the Navara one a crack first, since I have already ordered it (typical me, jumping in before having all the info). SO the GTR one is a simple case of swap the gear on the other end, bung it in, screw the cable in, and watch how fast the needle moves yeah?

Actually, can anyone here tell me what the legal ride height for a HR31 is? I am told it's legal, it looks alright, but so did my mate's 32, and it was pinged for too low. Ride height is measured from the top of the guards to the centre of the axle/hub yes?

Edited by guska
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 7 months later...

Sorry for not getting back to this thread sooner, but I was without internet for a while, then completely forgot about it.

I still have the coupe, still defected.

It has the silvertop RB20DET in it, with the RB25 5-speed.

I have now moved to NSW, and am about to go and retrieve my car from SA in early Feb.

My new question is, do I need to clear the defect in SA before sending it for a rego inspection in NSW? Or does the inspection in NSW make the SA defect redundant? I have been advised that this is the case, but I just want to be sure, and the RTA were of little to no help.

has it run out of rego in SA??

if so i'd say to rego it in NSW you would have to do what ever is required to rego a new car there?

i've, in the last 2 months, bought a car from VIC and rego'd it here in QLD, the rego had run out 2 days before i got it rego'd here and had to just get a road worthy cert and rego it as a new QLD car.

i hear the NSW requirements are pretty tuff though. you might have to get what ever the problem in SA was fixed anyway....

Was defected in SA...

The problems are fixed, it is basically just the ECU and tyres (3rd gear brake job during which I lost my licence) holding it back from SA rego. Along with whatever else they find. As far as I can find out, aftermarket ECUs are alright in NSW, as long as all the emissions gear is hooked up... hmmm, might have to 'hook up' the AFM... and theres no gaping holes in the loom.

Oh, and the Navara speedo sender worked a treat! Just bunged it in, and now it reads 10km/h under, so I better fix that at some stage...

Oh, and yes, the rego is well and truly expired, 2004 I think, if not earlier.

Edited by guska

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...