Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 118
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

mate just try this...... no ine ever said that the open throttle switch had to go on the throttle body...... they tried to tell us that too but we put it on the accelerator pedal under the dash way easy......and remember has to switch on at like 80-90% throttle not 100% like most ppl believe..... and a kind word of advice for ya..... dont ever jump on the gas while going slow or at low revs cause depending on how much gas etc u are running it will have a severe fit and a big backfire....... just my advice dude... your decision weather u use it or not as alot of ppl have varying ideas when it comes to nos.....cheers Jon

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16695-nitrous-going-on/#findComment-343055
Share on other sites

Rev - I'm dying to see how you go - should be great.

Depending on how technical you want to go you could put a mirco switch on the gearstick so the nos is only activated when out of first gear. And if you really want to go all out, you could use a comparitor and 555 curcuit so the nos only activates over ~3500rpm, or just modify a shift light :P

Of course you'd have a normal on/off switch to stop the nos from going on at all.

That would make it a little 'easier' to drive.

Oh, and we want pics pics pics :(:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16695-nitrous-going-on/#findComment-343225
Share on other sites

Yep, the 12 will be without nitrous and stock turbo. As it stands my re-tune should have me on track for a 280rwhp instead of the 230rwhp odd at 4700rpm (9's afr). The extra power I have is plenty to push me over the line for a 12.9 ,even with the razor blade 205's.

The 50 shot , and I'm afraid wider tyres, should put me into low 12's, the 100 shot into 11's.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16695-nitrous-going-on/#findComment-343640
Share on other sites

sorry,

That is relative to the particular dyno I went on. I'd say the stock turbo is still only 300 odd at the motor. The relative increase on that particular dyno to 280HP based on fixing afr and ping issue.

To put it another way: I'll have over 350HP at the engine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16695-nitrous-going-on/#findComment-344334
Share on other sites

INASNT,

know my way around nitrous. The 100HP of nitrous is fine, just as fine as a 100HP increase with a hiflow turbo. As long as the engine internals can handle the extra power --- regardless of what provides it. The nitrous has the added benifit of correct mixture out of the box Vs new turbo that requires re-map and larger injectors etc.

As I said earlier the 50 shot is for starters, to get things sorted nicely.

The purge kit would be a good idea if I was racing and had a 250HP or so direct port. Keeps the lines 'liquified'. little power shots like mine don't need it.

Bottle warmers are good in cold weather, for the most part Perth is hot enough (except some parts of winter) to go without one.

Driving on the street with it?

No, I can't do that! Thats illegal in W.A.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16695-nitrous-going-on/#findComment-345313
Share on other sites

INASNT,

the system will be in the car (lines solenoids etc...) except the bottle.

The EFI kit has a preset mixture, just change the jet. The engine tuning is basic... Retard the ignition, add a little extra fuel and shift gears 500rpm odd lower than normal (the torque increase is massive).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16695-nitrous-going-on/#findComment-345406
Share on other sites

That's not exactly "tuning" it, is it? :D

Yes, the neatest way is to use an auxillary output as a secondary arming switch, instead of a microswitch on the throttle body/accelerator pedal... Makes it much more stealthy :)

But as rev210 said, with a wet system, the fogger gives perfect fuel for the nitrous shot, so no extra "tuning" is required with a small 50-100 shot.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16695-nitrous-going-on/#findComment-346162
Share on other sites

mallory I think make a nitrous rev controller. you just put in two 'pills' one lower rev range and one upper rev range and it arms the throttle pos switch based on the rpms being within the specified range.

Things like that are kind of like turbo timers, you don't need them but if your a member of AA they are helpfull.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16695-nitrous-going-on/#findComment-346529
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • (Rb25det intake manifold) I’m having a hell of a time trying to find the full part or part number of this coolant hardline so far I was given these (Below) but they aren’t what I’m looking for and was told it’s the IAR or aac valve but that doesn’t seem to be it either. If someone could point me in the right direction it’d be greatly appreciated. Or if anyone has it for sale that’d be great too. I have recently purchased a greddy manifold and I can’t seem to find my old one to pull it off.  (Front Heater Return / Water Pipe (under intake): Primary part: 14053‑21U10 (front return pipe assembly for R33/R34 RB25DET) Alternative listing: 14053‑21U00 (same pipe, sometimes interchangeably referenced)   Heater Feed Pipe: Listed as 14075‑04U00 or feed-related variant 14053‑AG500)    
    • This sounds cool. But, as per usual, anything really complicated like that, that I take on, constitutes a steep learning curve that I never actually "learn". I just get it working, install it and start using it. Then, when it breaks a few months later, I've got no memory of what I did, how I did it, or even the bloody IP address I gave it. I'm having more or less exactly that problem right now. My Proxmox machine was discovered to be non-responsive, and the VMs on it were ditto. Power cycle it to a stream of loud Dell beep codes - which was unpopular at midnight, I can tell you. Move it to the lounge room so I can HDMI it to the TV for a screen, see the boot messages complaining about the /PVE/data having all sorts of LVM problems, saying it needs to be fixed manually. And I'm like....great. How am I going to work out what I need to do? At least it wasn't the stupid Silicon Power SSD shat itself. Mental note for all readers - DO NOT BUY SP SSDS! They are shit. I have had one take out an entire VM setup already, and this one could have done the same. Maybe it actually has. Cheap Chinesium shitbaskets. I won't cheap out again, even on play projects with no budget. Because my time budget having to fix shit is worth far more than the cost of proper parts.
    • I do typically agree. These days even the screens most people use have more of a boot time than the main device. However, I've seen an interesting use of the RPi in vehicle, however it involves effectively building your own OS and MBR, as then it boots up exceptionally quickly, as you don't have everything needing to start up, and you can then also run it up as an RTOS, while still having more compute than an Android can give for things like display, and processing. A very huge task that would be though for Duncan, I'm not sure that's his skill set (or Arduino programming and wiring) ha ha. If end goal is definitely just water cooling, Arduino would be the simpler setup especially for a rookie. If he wants extra display stuff though, bashing some code in Python on an RPi may be the better result for both systems.   Unfortunately the new device I'm building at work which runs a display, is too slow of a display for dashboard style purposes. More extreme low power, update only a couple of times a day type system
    • I don't like "actual computers" for in car use. They take time to boot up, have OS annoyances, and so on. Arduinos etc are ready to go a few seconds after power on, don't mind being agressively powere cycled, because everything is non-volatile, don't mind being shaken and stirred.
    • As Fred would tell us, it's all about interpreting the rules. It's not a water sprayer, it's a water mister... But everything else you've said, 100%! Even a raspberry Pi would be great, use HDMI out for a display, and add a raspberry Pi CANBus hat to read values out from the ECU.
×
×
  • Create New...