Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Originally posted by DennisRB30

If you get rid of the PCV system your engine will build up harmfull acidic gases which contaminate the oil reducing engine life.

I just got rid of my PCV and vented it straight to the Atmosphere. Is this bad? or is it only bad when you block it of completely. I'm finding alot of oil and shite in the intake. Never really known about the PCV, lol.

  • Replies 153
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

You can remove the PCV valve(illegal) or block it so it looks operational, but you must have a catch can to filter out the blowby gas/oil otherwise it will get sucked up into the intake/turbo/intercooler/engine.

INASNT have you blocked off the PCV valve or not?

VPW mailorder, there in epping but deliver to your door and yes they come with brackets but there kinda crappy so im making better ones also i had to go buy some hose and some fittings but that cost me like $20, and the catch can was $90 soooo its all good alot cheap than the cusco ones

i've installed my cusco oil catch can good 9-10months ago, but i am yet to fill 1/2 of the can with oil ... is this normal? everything is connected correct got it checked by my mechanic when i was servicing my car last saturday... i've heard some stories like someone losing more than 1litre of engine oil on the track and stuff... i've been to 3 track days with the catch can installed and i didn't lose that rediculous amount of oil... is anything wrong here?

nissaner, theoretical part 2: Your catch can is stuffed and doesnt work:) j/k

If you take off the oil fill cap when at idle, you will soon know if you are getting much blow by - on cars with poor (compression) rings, you will notice air escaping at a fair rate - thats if the pcv valve isnt blocked:p

Guest INASNT
Originally posted by turbomad

You can remove the PCV valve(illegal) or block it so it looks operational, but you must have a catch can to filter out the blowby gas/oil otherwise it will get sucked up into the intake/turbo/intercooler/engine.

INASNT have you blocked off the PCV valve or not?

nope, it feeds back after the the catch can

About catch cans. I bought an AVO unit 'bout a year ago. It has two inlets on the top and one outlet on the side. I use it on my RB20.

I have blocked off one of the inlets, connecting the catch-can only to the exhaust-side cover. The exhaust-side cover is connected to the intake-side cover as normal, which is the connected the inlet plenum as normal.

The catch-can outlet is connected to the pipe between the AFM and turbo as normal.

I still find that I have heaps of oil in my intake pipes. I also noticed that there is never a real build up of oil in the catch can (should there be?).

Am I expecting to much (thinking this should leave no oil in my intake)? Should I connect it up differently? I'm asking coz I feel like I've wasted my money - but you guys rekon catch-cans are ok.

if you've still got the breathers connected to the plenum, then the catch can probably won't do much. You've given the air two paths to take, and going straight into the plenum is much easier than going through the filter in the catch can. So there probably isn't much air going into the catch can, thus the lack of oil. I think if you block off the line going into the plenum things may improve. Also make sure that the catch can actually contains some filtering material. Some of them rely on the assumption that you'll have one of thos cute little k&n's attached to the outlet to do all the filtering. If this is the case with yours, then without the little filter all you are doing is running the blow-by through a can, which won't do much at all.

Thanks Belly_up,

Once again for the people in the cheap seats - you reckon I should block off the line between the plenum and the intake-side rocker cover (I'd remove the valve and replace it with a brass plug).

I should then run one line from each of the rocker covers to the two inlets on the top of the catch can. I should then assess whether the can has filter material in it, if it does, I can plumb back to the inlet piping, if it doesn't I should put a filter in it.

Does that sound like what you mean?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...