Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I have just had a PFC installed on my R33 GTST series 2 and had an adjustable ex cam gear put on at the same time (set at 4º retarded). The car seems fine but I was working on the car and noticed the CAS seemed fairly advanced (turned anti clockwise). I checked the timing, after letting the car warm up, and it appears to be set at 25º BTDC. I used a timing light attatched to the white wire loop at the rear of the engine.

Now I don't want to stuff the PFC tune around so I thought I would find out whether I should just leave it or put it back to the standard 15ºBTDC. If I look at the hand controller it shows 15 in the ign map grid it is using.

So I was just after people's thoughts

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/167634-base-timing-and-pfc/
Share on other sites

The handset shows 15 because that is what the PFC is programmed to run at that particular map point. However, you now need to make the crankshaft also show 15. But you need to be careful, because some timing lights somehow double the reading (so that 15 "real" degrees shows up as 30 on the crank pulley).

I ended up taking another reading with the pickup on the fattest of the 3 wires going to coil 1. I couldn't make it out properly as the marks were jumping all over the place. The reading was very clear going off the wire loop? I took a photo so that it would pick it up better than my eyes and appears to be at 15º going by the marks shown in the below pics (4th mark from the right).

post-13456-1178449086.jpg

post-13456-1178449145.jpg

This is with the timing light pickup attached to the fattest wire that runs to coil 1.

post-13456-1178449132.jpg

This is with the timing light pickup attached to the looped wire at the rear of the engine.

My CAS appears to be very advanced as I thought for 15º the bolts should be roughly in the centre of the adjustment holes.

post-13456-1178449109.jpg

I might put a lead in between the coil and the spark plug tomorrow, pickup off that and see if that cleans up the signal/light pulses.

Thanks for the advice, thanks for the PM grigor

Edited by Fry_33

did you disconnect the bottom plug on your TPS? the timing will jump around a lot if you haven't done this.

25 degrees is a lot, but if your PFC was tuned like that then if you knock 10 degrees of timing out it will run like a dog. i am surprised your tuner didn't realise his ignition advance values were much lower than they should be and check the base timing though.

Thanks Kinks, I might have put that tps plug back on between attempts at measuring it.. probably just forgot to take it off again, derr me.

Will check again tomorrow, I'm not stressed about it as the tuner would have picked it up like you say.

My CAS appears to be very advanced as I thought for 15º the bolts should be roughly in the centre of the adjustment holes.
But don't forget you've changed the camshaft orientation with the adjustable cam gears, and the CAS drives directly off the camshaft.

it will be in a different spot because of the cam gear now, rotating the camshaft a few deg.

however, the powerfc and crank should be matched exactly, if it was originally mapped with the crank and powerfc not matched, when you match it back up, you could either advance or retard your entire map.

depends on if you know for fact it was originally tuned with it all sync'd together.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...