Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Wheels 16 or 17 x 8's to suit R32 GTS-T (4dr)

Okay its time - I was pipped by 700th of a second in the hillclimb and my opponent had R tyres. My standard tyres have to go (is my competitive streak showing?? Maybe I should push those horns back in, they're starting to show).

I'm currently running stock standard 16x6.5's. I've heard that pre 94 GTR wheels will fit (thanks Jayce). Does anyone have anything that will do the job for me?

I also have for sale 17x9 Sparko wheels and Falken tyres to suit GTR (they fitted the front but were too big for the rear, wrong offset ) I'll be putting more about these in the For Sale section with photos soon.

If there are any enthusiasts out there that are interested in helping me get this car set up right (that won't charge me an arm and a leg... although, I am prepared to give up toes and fingers) I'd really appreciate the help.

Please PM me with any thoughts, ideas and hopefully faster wheels

Thanks

Michele

ACT

It sounds like you would benifit greatly from some better tyres.

If you are after some motorsport orientated tyres, I can help you out.

I work for Federal tyres.

Have a look at the Federal website - www.federaltyres.com.au.

suspect i'll be selling my buddy club p1s at some point, but not until i find a replacement set for the gtr, i'm afraid. :)

I'm new to this, so please excuse my ignorance... what are Buddy Club P1's? :rolleyes:

They are a nice set of wheels http://www.buddyclub.com.au/

good looking, light and fairly well priced compared to a lot of other jap wheels like Rays, Work etc

I'm new to this, so please excuse my ignorance... what are Buddy Club P1's? :rolleyes:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...