Jump to content
SAU Community

Stainless Front Pipe Modification

FLY-4DR

By FLY-4DR,
in Fabrication

 Share

Recommended Posts

FLY-4DR Enthusiast

FLY-4DR

Posted
Posted

Im lookin to buy a JJR stailess front pipe... wit the two seperate pipe one for the wastegate and one for exhaust gases...... how easy would it be for a stailess steel guy to cut the wastegate pipe and make it into a screamer pipe and welding over and coverig were the pipe was so it still flows the same

cheers brett

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169200-stainless-front-pipe-modification/
Share on other sites
  • 2 months later...
Sqd32 Enthusiast

Sqd32

Posted
Posted

i thought screamers only made the noise once the wastegate opened and is maintaining Full boost? i.e so if your controller or whatever is set to 12 psi, then every thing below would not make a noise? please tell me if im wrong im dying to work it out without getting one lol

Kane_R32 Experienced

Kane_R32

Posted
Posted

I have one. R32, R33 S1 turbo. Opens up on 4500rpm and screams til 7500rpm.

Dont regret it and can still putt around city neighbourhood under 4500rpm...

Does make it sound like an exhaust leak on idle. :)

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted
I have one. R32, R33 S1 turbo. Opens up on 4500rpm and screams til 7500rpm.

Dont regret it and can still putt around city neighbourhood under 4500rpm...

Does make it sound like an exhaust leak on idle. ;)

that suggestes that the gate or the flange that seperates them is leaking

KLR33 Community Regular

KLR33

Posted
Posted
that suggestes that the gate or the flange that seperates them is leaking

i have tryed this on a few cars

to get it to seal properly is not easy u really should machine the

inside of the rear housing to match the seperator in the dump pipe

in my experience if not done correctly it will leak n loose some bottom end power

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Bireley_32
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By Bireley_32 · Posted

      Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...