Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

First off Hello,

I'm in need of some help and advice. I'm from the United States, where sadly we were not blessed with the skylines like most of the world, but we can get the motors fairly easy. I have 95 nissan 240sx (silvia) with a s2 Rb25det swapped in. I've put a z32 maf in it and now i can't get it to run like i want. I'm using a safc II to correct the input/ouput signal. That is what i'm having an issue with. I've been told 2 in 4 out, but thats not working, it runs crazy rich, and won't idle. with it set to 0 in 0 out it will drive fine and idle fine till it warms up then it won't idle. I need some pointers. im getting to my buddies dyno sometime next week, but need help in the meantime. thanks.

Edited by fwdracer
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169611-rb25det-help/
Share on other sites

im assuming by 'maf' you mean afm?

And as far as im aware, you need an aftermarket ecu (piggyback or standalone) tuned for the z32 afm to account for the readings the new afm gives.

edit: whats your reasoning for installing a z32 afm its pretty much stock? the standard afm wouldnt be close to being maxed out

Edited by HomeDawwg
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169611-rb25det-help/#findComment-3134340
Share on other sites

im assuming by 'maf' you mean afm?

And as far as im aware, you need an aftermarket ecu (piggyback or standalone) tuned for the z32 afm to account for the readings the new afm gives.

edit: whats your reasoning for installing a z32 afm its pretty much stock? the standard afm wouldnt be close to being maxed out

nah the z32 can be used with a safc2 to correct it.

I've never used a safc2 to run a z32 so unfortunately i wont be much help. I'm sure theres a few guys on here that will know though

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169611-rb25det-help/#findComment-3134353
Share on other sites

im assuming by 'maf' you mean afm?

And as far as im aware, you need an aftermarket ecu (piggyback or standalone) tuned for the z32 afm to account for the readings the new afm gives.

edit: whats your reasoning for installing a z32 afm its pretty much stock? the standard afm wouldnt be close to being maxed out

i do have an aftermarket piggy back...apexi safc 2. i put the z32 afm on because the stock one was missing from the motor. the car has more parts waiting to be put on, but i want it to run good first.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169611-rb25det-help/#findComment-3134354
Share on other sites

i do have an aftermarket piggy back...apexi safc 2. i put the z32 afm on because the stock one was missing from the motor. the car has more parts waiting to be put on, but i want it to run good first.

did a quick search and 2in / 6 out seems to be the setting to get the z32 working.

Give that a go and see what happens

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169611-rb25det-help/#findComment-3134355
Share on other sites

did a quick search and 2in / 6 out seems to be the setting to get the z32 working.

Give that a go and see what happens

it idled but wouldn't rev past 4k. 3in/ 6 out, will not idle but rev all the way out and was running really rich. its almost like if you have the bov vented to the atomosphere...it just shuts off.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169611-rb25det-help/#findComment-3134383
Share on other sites

it idled but wouldn't rev past 4k. 3in/ 6 out, will not idle but rev all the way out and was running really rich. its almost like if you have the bov vented to the atomosphere...it just shuts off.

well 2in/ 1 out works till it is at normal operating temps...then it just goes into safe mode....any help guys?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169611-rb25det-help/#findComment-3135316
Share on other sites

well 2in/ 1 out works till it is at normal operating temps...then it just goes into safe mode....any help guys?

well 2in/4 out has to be it....its running but really rich.....would fuel normally need to be pulled? i noticed the car has a adj. fuel pressure regulator on it....whats stock fuel pressure on a rb25det?....also i noticed that when i unplug a vaccum line it runs fine...but when its capped off it runs like crap.....where in a stock rb25 are these lines routed to? thanks for all the help.....

IMG_0633.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169611-rb25det-help/#findComment-3145609
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
    • @GTSBoy yeah sorry i know thery are known for colors bud those DBA are too in colors 🙂 Green will be good enough for me  
    • That's my life. Past-Duncan has a lot to answer for
×
×
  • Create New...