Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok so i've been looking at alot of r32 gtr's lately and to tell truth the only ways i really have (besides the comp/leakdown tests that i will do later) of checking if an engine is in ok condition is by the sound of it, a screwdriver to various parts of the block and intake, a look at the exhaust colour and a squizz at the oil filler cap, opening it whilst the car is running and the dipstick and thats about it.

Whats a good quick and easy test to do or thing to look at, engine wise, before you go to all the effort of getting a comp/leakdown?

Just that most of the r32's in melb that are currently for sale haven't been rebuilt, and i'm certain any rb26 that hasn't been rebuilt will likely blow up within the first year of me driving, so i'd like as much engine life as possible before having to get it rebuilt

ty

So certain that an Rb26 that hasnt been rebuilt will blow up in the first year? It all depends on how it was looked after - mine hasnt skipped a beat in over 2 years and hasnt been rebuilt to my knowledge...

Yeh well u can get a good engine, but i'll be putting some larger turbo's onto it and hunting 300ish rwkw and i know they're getting old and that alot of stock ones blow, so i just wanted some simple checks i can do, so i don't have to take every car i look at to the mech's straight away :blush:

Take it for a drive and see how it goes. If you don't know how the 26 is supposed to feel like, maybe get someone trustworthy off here who owns/owned a GTR and get them to go and check the car out with you? I'm sure if they've owned a 26 before, they should know if the engine is up to scratch or not.

Cheers,

Adam

  r32 gts-turbo said:
Ok so i've been looking at alot of r32 gtr's lately and to tell truth the only ways i really have (besides the comp/leakdown tests that i will do later) of checking if an engine is in ok condition is by the sound of it, a screwdriver to various parts of the block and intake, a look at the exhaust colour and a squizz at the oil filler cap, opening it whilst the car is running and the dipstick and thats about it.

Whats a good quick and easy test to do or thing to look at, engine wise, before you go to all the effort of getting a comp/leakdown?

Just that most of the r32's in melb that are currently for sale haven't been rebuilt, and i'm certain any rb26 that hasn't been rebuilt will likely blow up within the first year of me driving, so i'd like as much engine life as possible before having to get it rebuilt

ty

get the car at operating temp and open the oil filler cap while its running (like u said above) and see if chuffing white mist out, if it is theres an obvious blow by problem (rings etc). dont no much about r32 gtrs, but this works well with other cars :)also i guess a nice normal looking engine bay may tell you abit, eg: no paint missing from intake plenum, or cam covers etc

goodluck in ur quest :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dredgggggeeee time; I have recently finally started driving the car. It sat for so long that the fuel tank gave birth to rust sludge and blocked my lift pump sock and one of my walbro 460's and left grime, rust chunks and muck all through the surge tank and system. I decided to commit and pull the trigger on an oem r32 gtr fuel tank and Frenchys twin 460 / sender / surge tank hanger combo and all new larger lines and fittings etc, also boost doc heater hose kit / new heater core and a heap of other bits and shits like wideband sensor installed in the dump and Syltech iacv + lines and all wired and added to current tune. now having lightly driven it a couple times without issue, I can happily report on the hta3076 in its current tune. still no boost control switched on, 20psi gate springs, car makes 22psi at 3200rpm in 6th gear with 30-50% TPS from cruise at 100kmh. Going by the old graph, this means it should be making 300-325whp at the same numbers above. Very very responsive setup under true road driving loads. all that's left for the build is body loom + PDM, finish the remote aircon setup, install carbon fibre parts and go for full tune and 30psi. the 315 rear tyres are now performing like they're 195's, wheel spin in any gear at almost any rpm, whereas my previous setup hooked up in 3rd no issue, albeit Nt01's back then / RB25 5spd vs (new) old date r888r's Z34 6spd now, + obviously all the support upgrades I listed in the quoted post above. car sits at 1-3psi on cruise at 100kmh, expectations totally exceeded and I'm beyond stoked with all this so far. IMG_4848.mov
    • I've also been eyeing their rear axles for my car. I purchased seat mounts from them about 7 years ago and they were hot garbage so I've been a little wary about purchasing them. With that being said, please buy them and get back to us haha. 
    • Can a moderator please move this into the right category.. I've accidently put this into racing build thread 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Being a manual, we very quickly ordered new R34 gearbox (From Nissan) and remaining parts from Kudos motorsports. Would highly recommend the team there. Ultra helpful and quick to share advice and upgrades. We are in the middle of taking the Auto out (Genuine 94,000/kms) and putting the Manual in this weekend. Part 2 of the build will include likely a Plazaman Intercooler and Plenium, Hks Exhaust with Tomei Dump (ordered).
×
×
  • Create New...