Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hmm so after some pondering ive decided to go for a S-AFC II, FMIC and fuel pump. And then in the near future hopefully a slide high flow.

From what ive read in old topics the SAFC can't really support bigger injectors, but would support a high flow yeah?

Still undecided on what pump to get, Walbro is deliciously cheap but people seem to have had issues with it. Was also going to get a Bosch 040 but aparently its crap and noisy :D

the SAFC isnt going to handle the high flow turbo very well. you'll be able to tune it slightly, but you'll be missing out on somewhere between 30 and 50rwkw from the lack of an ECU once you put a aftermarket / hiflow turbo in. Plus stock injectors cant cope with much more than ~225 rwkw.

The SAFC isnt a bad option, as it will hold its value, so when you put in an aftermarket ECU, can sell it for same price you buy it. Nothing wrong with the Bosch 040 if its installed properly. can just hear it over exhaust at idle, and you cant hear it at all once you start driving.

As i said in my previous post however, make sure you have set aside money for a clutch, especially if your still running stockers.. it aint gonna last long. might just be able to squeeze that into your 2k budget along with fmic, fuel pump and safc2.

Hmm so after some pondering ive decided to go for a S-AFC II, FMIC and fuel pump. And then in the near future hopefully a slide high flow.

From what ive read in old topics the SAFC can't really support bigger injectors, but would support a high flow yeah?

Still undecided on what pump to get, Walbro is deliciously cheap but people seem to have had issues with it. Was also going to get a Bosch 040 but aparently its crap and noisy :)

You can always sell the safc should you want to change the ecu down the track, but it will be more than adequate for the standard hi-flow and won't loose you 30-50rwkW as stated earlier. In the dyno results thread people are running hi-flows with stock ecu and achieving 200-220rwkW, it's just a safer idea to get it tuned with the safc.

Find a genuine walbro pump with the higher L/min rating or a Denso pump from Kudos motorsport. 040's are a good pump put they're just physically to big for the r33 tank and if it's touching one side of the tank it will be noisy as hell.

You can always sell the safc should you want to change the ecu down the track, but it will be more than adequate for the standard hi-flow and won't loose you 30-50rwkW as stated earlier. In the dyno results thread people are running hi-flows with stock ecu and achieving 200-220rwkW, it's just a safer idea to get it tuned with the safc.

Find a genuine walbro pump with the higher L/min rating or a Denso pump from Kudos motorsport. 040's are a good pump put they're just physically to big for the r33 tank and if it's touching one side of the tank it will be noisy as hell.

When you say a walbro pump with the higher L/min rating, which one would that be? Only ones I see on ebay are the 255L/hour jobbies, the Walbro GSS 341. That the one your talking to or is there a model up from that? I WOULD like to go with the Walbro mainly because they seem easy to source and are one of the less expensive pumps around.

One is a GSS341 and the other is a GSS341HP, most dodgy traders sell people the GSS341 which is fine for standard cars, but for modified and larger capacity cars the GSS341HP(High Pressure) is required.

Sorry by l/min I mean't l/hr... brain lapse :) .

Edited by BAMR33

Hey not hijacking the thread but let me know how u go as i have similar mods to you and am in the same boat.. got full exhaust, boost controller and got same sorta money to play with. But i have splitfires and a h/d clutch as well:)

So the safc's are actually worth it? And i (and Lachlan33) would feel a noticeable difference with the addition of a tuned safc and a bigger fuel pump? I'm also debating whether to get a justjap or a hybrid cooler for mine.

One is a GSS341 and the other is a GSS341HP, most dodgy traders sell people the GSS341 which is fine for standard cars, but for modified and larger capacity cars the GSS341HP(High Pressure) is required.

Walbro's low pressure pump in this design is part number GSS315. GSS341 is the high pressure variant.

get swaybars and some coilovers, and maybe some castor rods if the budget can stretch that far ;)

Then you can corner faster and out run all the guys with stock suspension and 200rwkw :)

what he said, but forget castor rods :nyaanyaa: or enkei rims ;)

Whats the most important thing to you?

Is it "bling/rice'?

Is it better safety (the standard gtst needs some help with traction)?

Is it straight line accelleration?

Is it reliabillity?

Depending on how you answer these sorts of questions you will get some slightly different answers.

Remember that search is your friend.

If you are handy with a spanner the $2k goes alot further.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Nah, don't bother doing any actual measurements on the car. Just go ask the inter-f**king-net.
    • I currently have 18 x 9 +30 on the front with 18 x 10.5 +38 on the rear. Absolutely regretted it. Ended up putting 15 mm spacers on front and 25 mm spacers on the rear. Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers. Definitely would go more aggressive then what you were originally planning. Keep in mind my guards are rolled and cars fair low so you might possibly need to roll guards depending how aggressive you go and how low the car is. Im not an expert but the 18 x 8.5 +25 18x9.5 +30 Sounds like it would sit much better.
    • Hey guys, sorry i have been researching for a few months and absolutely cannot wrap my head around this. I am about to order some rims to fit my R34 Gtt with coilovers My original plan was to order Rota grid R in 18x8.5 +30 235 40 R18 Fronts 18x9.5 +35 255 35 r18 rears But then the thought in my head said this isnt aggressive enough. I want the most concave spokes i can get without too much of poke and scrubbing   So my thoughts now is  18x8.5 +25 18x9.5 +30   My question is will this be the most aggressive i could get it without any guard rolling and does the type of rim style affect the offset / size.   Thanks everyone.
    • Lower parts are there. On passenger seat, bright yellow bit is the release mount. On drivers, bright yellow bit is the lower buckle for the other side. My bet is lowers are tucked out of the way as much as possible for visuals.
    • I'm guessing its a 4 point harness, 3 of the 4 belts are visible. I'm guessing the hidden belt is tucked down between the seat and door. 
×
×
  • Create New...