Jump to content
SAU Community

Spend My $2k For Me

Lachlan33

By Lachlan33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Lachlan33 Community Regular

Lachlan33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hmm so after some pondering ive decided to go for a S-AFC II, FMIC and fuel pump. And then in the near future hopefully a slide high flow.

From what ive read in old topics the SAFC can't really support bigger injectors, but would support a high flow yeah?

Still undecided on what pump to get, Walbro is deliciously cheap but people seem to have had issues with it. Was also going to get a Bosch 040 but aparently its crap and noisy :D

Strik3r Experienced

Strik3r

Posted
Posted

the SAFC isnt going to handle the high flow turbo very well. you'll be able to tune it slightly, but you'll be missing out on somewhere between 30 and 50rwkw from the lack of an ECU once you put a aftermarket / hiflow turbo in. Plus stock injectors cant cope with much more than ~225 rwkw.

The SAFC isnt a bad option, as it will hold its value, so when you put in an aftermarket ECU, can sell it for same price you buy it. Nothing wrong with the Bosch 040 if its installed properly. can just hear it over exhaust at idle, and you cant hear it at all once you start driving.

As i said in my previous post however, make sure you have set aside money for a clutch, especially if your still running stockers.. it aint gonna last long. might just be able to squeeze that into your 2k budget along with fmic, fuel pump and safc2.

BAMR33 Mentor

BAMR33

Posted
Posted
Hmm so after some pondering ive decided to go for a S-AFC II, FMIC and fuel pump. And then in the near future hopefully a slide high flow.

From what ive read in old topics the SAFC can't really support bigger injectors, but would support a high flow yeah?

Still undecided on what pump to get, Walbro is deliciously cheap but people seem to have had issues with it. Was also going to get a Bosch 040 but aparently its crap and noisy :)

You can always sell the safc should you want to change the ecu down the track, but it will be more than adequate for the standard hi-flow and won't loose you 30-50rwkW as stated earlier. In the dyno results thread people are running hi-flows with stock ecu and achieving 200-220rwkW, it's just a safer idea to get it tuned with the safc.

Find a genuine walbro pump with the higher L/min rating or a Denso pump from Kudos motorsport. 040's are a good pump put they're just physically to big for the r33 tank and if it's touching one side of the tank it will be noisy as hell.

Lachlan33 Community Regular

Lachlan33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
You can always sell the safc should you want to change the ecu down the track, but it will be more than adequate for the standard hi-flow and won't loose you 30-50rwkW as stated earlier. In the dyno results thread people are running hi-flows with stock ecu and achieving 200-220rwkW, it's just a safer idea to get it tuned with the safc.

Find a genuine walbro pump with the higher L/min rating or a Denso pump from Kudos motorsport. 040's are a good pump put they're just physically to big for the r33 tank and if it's touching one side of the tank it will be noisy as hell.

When you say a walbro pump with the higher L/min rating, which one would that be? Only ones I see on ebay are the 255L/hour jobbies, the Walbro GSS 341. That the one your talking to or is there a model up from that? I WOULD like to go with the Walbro mainly because they seem easy to source and are one of the less expensive pumps around.

BAMR33 Mentor

BAMR33

Posted
Posted (edited)

One is a GSS341 and the other is a GSS341HP, most dodgy traders sell people the GSS341 which is fine for standard cars, but for modified and larger capacity cars the GSS341HP(High Pressure) is required.

Sorry by l/min I mean't l/hr... brain lapse :) .

Edited by BAMR33
JET-25L Proficient

JET-25L

Posted
Posted

Hey not hijacking the thread but let me know how u go as i have similar mods to you and am in the same boat.. got full exhaust, boost controller and got same sorta money to play with. But i have splitfires and a h/d clutch as well:)

So the safc's are actually worth it? And i (and Lachlan33) would feel a noticeable difference with the addition of a tuned safc and a bigger fuel pump? I'm also debating whether to get a justjap or a hybrid cooler for mine.

govich Community Regular

govich

Posted
Posted
One is a GSS341 and the other is a GSS341HP, most dodgy traders sell people the GSS341 which is fine for standard cars, but for modified and larger capacity cars the GSS341HP(High Pressure) is required.

Walbro's low pressure pump in this design is part number GSS315. GSS341 is the high pressure variant.

DaGr81 Mentor

DaGr81

Posted
Posted
get swaybars and some coilovers, and maybe some castor rods if the budget can stretch that far ;)

Then you can corner faster and out run all the guys with stock suspension and 200rwkw :)

what he said, but forget castor rods :nyaanyaa: or enkei rims ;)

rev210 Grand Master

rev210

Posted
Posted

Whats the most important thing to you?

Is it "bling/rice'?

Is it better safety (the standard gtst needs some help with traction)?

Is it straight line accelleration?

Is it reliabillity?

Depending on how you answer these sorts of questions you will get some slightly different answers.

Remember that search is your friend.

If you are handy with a spanner the $2k goes alot further.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Kinkstaah
      Starting again

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...