Jump to content
SAU Community

Unable To Get Indicators Working At All.

S1R33

By S1R33,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

S1R33 Contributor

S1R33

Posted
Posted

Hi there, i recently had a problem with my indicators not working, the fuse blew so i replaced the fuse and all was well, although i had to use a slightly larger fuse because i didn't have one with the same amp rating.

The indicators stopped working again, then i checked all the fuses ok. I replaced the 3 pin idicator flasher thingy (under the steering column) but they still don't work. Now the thing that has got me stumped, all the indicators flash fine with my alarm no worries but not with the indicators and the hazard doesn't work either.

DRD-00F Grand Master

DRD-00F

Posted
Posted

hmmm thats pretty weird... my first thought was that you may have burnt out a wire... but thats unlikely...

have you checked all 3 lots of fuses? boot, drivers seat and engine bay?

sounds like you lost a signal from the dash... cause the alarm would use its own...

moobaque Rising Star

moobaque

Posted
Posted
Hi there, i recently had a problem with my indicators not working, the fuse blew so i replaced the fuse and all was well, although i had to use a slightly larger fuse because i didn't have one with the same amp rating.

The indicators stopped working again, then i checked all the fuses ok. I replaced the 3 pin idicator flasher thingy (under the steering column) but they still don't work. Now the thing that has got me stumped, all the indicators flash fine with my alarm no worries but not with the indicators and the hazard doesn't work either.

Sounds like the connector at the back of your hazard light button isnt making contact or has fallen out. your indicator runs through that button before it heads to the indicators them selves, hence why neither indicator stalk or hazard button work. When you have remote central locking put in its brain is talking to the indicators earlier in the chain and thats why it does still work. Tis very easy to get the dash off and have a look. There is a post in the DIY section that has pretty pictures to go along with it.

Adam J. Rookie

Adam J.

Posted
Posted

I have the same problem, only I have only lost my right turn signal, which has stopped my hazards from working. What happens is as soon as I hit the right signal it blows a fuse and this box under the dash that says "Niles" on it startes buzzing loudly until it is turned off. This just started randomly happening recently, when I went to start he car one morning actually. any ideas on this as well? thank you

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Tekitsune
      Upgrade an rb25neo

      By Tekitsune 路 Posted

      Hello, just just bought an 1999 enr34 with a stock rb25neo and I'm looking to upgrade the engine to 500whp I know some basic things but wondering if there are things I'll need to do to upgrade the stock block and all the bits and pieces to achieve this.
    • DatsunBanana
      Rear subframe stay bracket bolt removal issues

      By DatsunBanana 路 Posted

      Thanks everyone for the replies and suggestions. Got the seats out (hoping I could find some existing grommets but no such luck). By tapping and measuring etc. I could figure out where I could drill through if needed. But first I borrowed an inspection camera and managed to go through factory holes in the chassis rail and could see that the captive nut was holding steady which is why it could retighten. So it was indeed a stripped section of thread, so I applied downforce by levering the bolt head with a screwdriver and went slowly back and forth until it came out. Camera helped a lot cos I could monitor that the captive nut was holding tight. Now I just have one very seized main subframe nut to tackle 馃槄
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Question about BoV on RB25DET NEO

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu 路 Posted

      BOVs do have a purpose, if you ever log pressure before and after the throttle body, you will see a spike pre throttle on lift off from a WOT condition. Enough to bend throttle blades / damage e-throttle motors or simple assist in blowing off cooler pipes. FWIW, the above on really applies to those running at least 2 bar of boost. OP shouldn't have an issue, on the other hand, here are some videos of my shit box over a decade ago with some succulent dose with the airbox on and off. That shit box is unrecognisable these days 馃珷    
    • Yeetus
      Question about BoV on RB25DET NEO

      By Yeetus 路 Posted

      I've tried all different combinations of BOVs/ no BOV and stock bypass valves over the years, on gear changes the stock bypass valve seems to get the car back on boost quicker because in part the turbos wheel speed isn't being slowed down by reversion, although they have issues holding boost much over the stock setting. Most aftermarket BOVs you can adjust the spring, tighter will make it open later and close sooner, but in my experience it'll cause a bit of flutter at low load/rpm anyway. I've also got some input into this whole no bov causing turbo wear, never had an issue on any on my turbos HOWEVER, I got my R33 GTST with 200k kms on it, with from what I can see still has the original turbo, no lateral shaft play but has about 4-5mm of play in and out which to me seems like a worn thrust bearing from years (100-150k kms?) of turbo flutter running no bov, so maybe there is some truth to it in the long run. But that'll never stop me loving the Stutututu while I have the car.   OP just wants to know if he can run a atmo vented BOV with no major issues and the answer is YES, plenty of people do it, there's no harm in installing it and seeing how it runs before spending $$$ on an aftermarket ecu, last time I bought a Nistune it was $2400 for install and a tune , unsure of todays prices but you get me. Crazy money to spend just to fix the minor inconvenience of stalling that can be overcome by letting the revs come down to near idle before putting the clutch in or a little bit of throttle to avoid it. You're better off leaving the ecu and tune for after a bigger turbo/injectors have been installed to take full advantage of the tune and get your moneys worth.   Let OP have his Whoosh sound without trying to break his bank haha
    • MBS206
      Question about BoV on RB25DET NEO

      By MBS206 路 Posted

      I see you missed the rest of the conversation where they have benefits, but nothing to do with avoiding breaking turbos, which is what the aftermarket BOV made all the fan boys, tuners, and modders believe was the only purpose for them...
脳
脳
  • Create New...