Jump to content
SAU Community

Misfiring And White Smoke

S13 SecaBoy
 Share

Recommended Posts

S13 SecaBoy Enthusiast

S13 SecaBoy

Posted
Posted

hey guys...

i'm hoping someone on here might be able to help me...

i've done a search, but i cant find a thread with my problems...

its an RB20DET with fmic, 3" exhaust, fuel pump, t04e (brand new), splitfire coilpacks and irdium spark plugs... STANDARD ECU

basically, when i do a cold start it PISSES out white smoke (smells of fuel not oil) and it misfires on idle... but if you rev the car, the misfiring goes away but there is still craploads of white smoke coming out the exhaust...

but then as soon as you take it for a drive and the engine temp comes up to 'normal', all the smoke clears away (apart from a bit of black smoke cause its running excessively rich) and the misfiring stops on idle...

now.. i'm completely stumped as to why this would be happening... does anyone have any suggestions on what it could be?

i cant see it being a blown head gasket because a) the smoke clears up once the temp comes up to normal, b) the water in the radiator doesnt have a flim of oil on it and c) the oil isnt milky....

i believe i have two seperate problems... but they could be related, i dont know...

the first problem is that its running REALLY rich and i believe thats why the smoke smells of fuel and possibly why its misfiring because the spark plug is getting wet from too much fuel... sometimes it sounds like it running on 4cyl and other times it sounds like its running on 5cyl...

then the second problem is the white smoke which i have no clue on...

PLEASE HELP!!! i cant go on like this... :P

if you need to ask any clarification questions, then go ahead... ;)

thanks

ash

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173061-misfiring-and-white-smoke/
Share on other sites
Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted

Still can be a head gasket :P

You may have a minor crack that leaks into the bore, when cold, then as the engine heats up everything expands and seals up, till it gets cold again. If a gasket leaks water into a bore, the water will never mix with the oil, or vis-versa, and the water will then pass through the exhaust system.

All cars have white smoke in the mornings, but it really depends on how much you consider alot.

I am by no means stating that you have a blown head gasket, just advising that it is still a possibility and should not be ruled out because of the things you have listed.

Devils_Advocate21 Mentor

Devils_Advocate21

Posted
Posted

Easy, White smoke on cold mornings here in brissy at the moment condensation, missfire due to running either colder plugs say 7's as they take a while to come to temp or the excessively always running rich fouling your plugs

Done :P

S13 SecaBoy Enthusiast

S13 SecaBoy

Posted
  • Author
Posted
There is a sensor for cold starts it might be stuffed

Have u ran the diagnotic on the ecu it might tell u what is wrong

good point, thats one thing we havent checked... didnt think it would cause all the smoke... :whistling:

Still can be a head gasket :yes:

You may have a minor crack that leaks into the bore, when cold, then as the engine heats up everything expands and seals up, till it gets cold again. If a gasket leaks water into a bore, the water will never mix with the oil, or vis-versa, and the water will then pass through the exhaust system.

All cars have white smoke in the mornings, but it really depends on how much you consider alot.

I am by no means stating that you have a blown head gasket, just advising that it is still a possibility and should not be ruled out because of the things you have listed.

i was told this by someone else today as well... i had never heard of this happening before... i didnt know the HG could have a 'minor crack'... i just thought that once they go, thats it, its gone!!

i call it "A LOT" when you sit in the car and you cant see behind you because of all the smoke...

Easy, White smoke on cold mornings here in brissy at the moment condensation, missfire due to running either colder plugs say 7's as they take a while to come to temp or the excessively always running rich fouling your plugs

Done :)

when i say "cold start", i dont mean just in the morning... it could be at 2pm in the afternoon... i just mean that it hasnt been started in quite a few hours so the engine is "cold"...

and its not condenstation in the exhaust system... my euro 'smokes' in the morning as well which is caused by condensation in the exhaust system... this is thick white smoke that bellows out of the exhaust pipe...

after all this, it was started today and driven back to my house from my mates workshop and there wasnt a puff of smoke at all and absolutely no mis-firing... so it seems like one day it will smoke and misfire, then the next day it will be fine, then the day after that it'll have problems again... :P

could a minor crack in the head gasket 'come and go' like that?

and would a minor crack in the head gasket cause it to misfire randomly at idle?

i'll start her up in the morning tomorrow and see if she smokes and misfires or not... :)

thanks for the suggestions guys... please keep them coming.. its greatly appreciated! :)

S13 SecaBoy Enthusiast

S13 SecaBoy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

well, the smoke and misfiring is back today...

it kinda sounds like its choking on something on low revs, until you stab the throttle and bring the revs up then it clears up until the revs drop again... :?

any ideas from peoples??? :whistling:

Green_s13 Proficient

Green_s13

Posted
Posted

it sounds like you might have a leaky injector hence the running really rich, i cant say i have seen white smoke from fuel but it may be possible that the plugs are not burning it all and is getting onto your turbo and doing something odd with the seals, i had this problem with a silvia a few years ago.

Green_s13 Proficient

Green_s13

Posted
Posted

easiest way is to remove spark plugs, unplug ignitor pack, then prime the fuel pump, if you can see fuel in any of the cylinders you have a leak. now it could be either the injector itself or is could be one of the o-ring's that seals then into the fuel rail.

S13 SecaBoy Enthusiast

S13 SecaBoy

Posted
  • Author
Posted
How about valve stem oil seals??

is there anyway of testing that without pulling the engine apart?

i havent had a chance to start the car since my last post... been too busy with work... :O

i'll update on saturday when i take it for a drive... :)

S13 SecaBoy Enthusiast

S13 SecaBoy

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
I actually started to think the same thing, but didn't come across this thread again till now.

okay...

any idea on how to check them?

or is it a job for the mechanics to pull the engine apart?

edit: just thinking about it again... would the valve stem oil seal cause BLUE smoke??

i dont have any blue smoke.. its only white... ;)

Edited by S13 SecaBoy
S13 SecaBoy Enthusiast

S13 SecaBoy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

my issue is this...

IF it was using water, then straight away i'd point at the BHG... but its not using any water... :cheers:

IF the smoke was blue, then it'd point to an oil related issue... but the smoke is not blue and its not using any oil...

i'm gonna pull out the spark plugs and see if there is any fuel going into the cylinder with the car off...

firstly though, i'll check to see which cylinder is dropping out... that way i dont have to take ALLLL the spark plugs out... :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...