Jump to content
SAU Community

300+ RWKW GTS-t Dyno Video

Guest F U Z

By Guest F U Z,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Guest F U Z

Guest F U Z

Posted
Posted

The piston's will be fine !

It's a well tuned engine. We could tune it up to over 530-550rwhp if desired - no problem... but then we really would cook the internals. We are going to run the engine in this state of tune for a while before doing the internals. At this stage though, 300 reliable day after day rear wheel kilowatts... and a lot of cash later =0)

F U Z

dabigbolf Proficient

dabigbolf

Posted
Posted

good stuff.

there was a dyno day here in melb last week for the commodore club. A vh 253 pulled a whopping 24 kw at the treads. Was pinging so bad. everyone laughed at the poor bloke.

with your gt30 turbo you running an external gate, and what sort of time does it come on boost by, would be lots of fun when it does.

Guest F U Z

Guest F U Z

Posted
Posted

Yeah we have an external wastegate. When the Boost comes on around 3500rpm it pulls damn hard !... hence the requirement for traction control =0)

I will be doing some more vids of the launch control, traction control and driving etc soon, i am still getting the dyno sheet scanned.

It could produce way more. The head just won't flow much more unfortunately, so with the internals done, cams etc, it should move up over 500rwhp. It is just tuned for reliability atm.

F U Z

dabigbolf Proficient

dabigbolf

Posted
Posted

what happens.

do you get better launches or what.

is it autronic that has that device.

does the computer tell the motor to produce less power, so u dont brake traction, or does the arse end bog down, and just go for it.

i have heard people throw the word around but never asked how it works.

is it costly.

Guest F U Z

Guest F U Z

Posted
Posted

It is purely controlled via MoTeC. MoTeC misfires cylinders to retard power momentarily depending on the percentage of tyre slip v's throttle position. Basically, in the pouring rain, you can drop the clutch and all you hear is a popping sound and you scream off - way faster than you could possible imagine for the wet. It is great for hanging it around corners. Simply nail the accelerator and as soon as the prescribed slip is achieved, the traction control grabs the rear end and stops you flying off the road whilst still allowing control to maintain the corner.

Combined with launch control, traction control and flat throttle gear changes, it has provided a package that has made this car simply amazing to drive. Launches are sensational and slaps a smile on your face as wide as the car. Autronic has a traction control module, but no where near as good as MoTeC (just my opinion though).

Other sorts of traction control such as on the twin turbo 2JZ supra use a pre-throttle body restrictor to reduce air flow and accordingly power to the motor. This is poor by comparision as it prevents boost from being produced and offers poor performance. MoTeC maintains boost all through periods of traction loss.

The traction control module is around $800 on top of the price of MoTeC. All up, you can probably expect upwards of $6000 installed and tuned.

F U Z

Guest F U Z

Guest F U Z

Posted
Posted

Ahhh, one of the most accurate dyno's in Australia... or in New Zealand.

It was on a new direct drive line Dyno owned by Speedworks in WA. Basically, you take off the rear wheels and bolt the two units up to the hubs. That way there is no slip. It is also brilliant for 4WD and AWD vehicles.

I do have some video footage of the setup, but haven't converted it to digital format yet... if you are interested.

F U Z

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...