Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Get every dollar out of the stock one.

its not worth taking the risk cos with this view, it might srsly end up costing you more dollars than you bargained for. If your going to do at some point, why not just do it now, cos at 280 rwhp, you'd be pretty much close to maxing it up. Sometimes you cant even notice have much it is leaning out. i'd say just change it, before you do long term damage

Edited by moonus

As rednecks would say 'don'ts fix it till it's brokes'

But seriously should be fine, and you don't want to put fuel pump in unless you really have to... It's a stinky c**t of job.

Buy a fuel pressure gauge only $69 (defi style) from just jap for fuel pump insurance + you can rice your cabin up more.

I reckon change it. Its not worth you taking the risk till it dies, it will leave you strandard in the middle of no where.

If you have the cash just buy it, there is no harm in changing it. It may last you another year, or maybe it will last another day. Who's to say when it will go?

At least with a new one, you will know its got a long life a head of it, and its not going to clonk out any time soon.

If your planning on getting more power out of it, why not upgrade it. The stock one didnt cost you anything anyways..

You could pick up a replacement pump, like a BOSCH 040 cheap enough.

Buy a fuel pressure gauge only $69 (defi style)...

But $70 is like half the price of a fuel pump. Later on if he buys another fuel pump, when it does die, it will cost him more in the long run. Might as well spend the cash and upgrade now..

Just my thoughts!.. :D

Thanks,

Abu

Edited by abu
I reckon change it. Its not worth you taking the risk till it dies, it will leave you strandard in the middle of no where.

If you have the cash just buy it, there is no harm in changing it. It may last you another year, or maybe it will last another day. Who's to say when it will go?

At least with a new one, you will know its got a long life a head of it, and its not going to clonk out any time soon.

If your planning on getting more power out of it, why not upgrade it. The stock one didnt cost you anything anyways..

You could pick up a replacement pump, like a BOSCH 040 cheap enough.

But $70 is like half the price of a fuel pump. Later on if he buys another fuel pump, when it does die, it will cost him more in the long run. Might as well spend the cash and upgrade now..

Just my thoughts!.. :D

Thanks,

Abu

Where are these $140 fuel pumps you speak of... my genuine bosch cost $220 delivered. A fuel pressure gauge is a good idea all the same, as if fuel pressure drops the afr's lean out and cause damage.

Many cheap after market fuel pumps break or seize shortly after installation due to poor installation, factory faults with pumps, and especailly with 040's the bottom filter screen sucks up crap and reduces possible flow which burns out the pump.

I reckon change it. Its not worth you taking the risk till it dies, it will leave you strandard in the middle of no where.

If you have the cash just buy it, there is no harm in changing it. It may last you another year, or maybe it will last another day. Who's to say when it will go?

At least with a new one, you will know its got a long life a head of it, and its not going to clonk out any time soon.

If your planning on getting more power out of it, why not upgrade it. The stock one didnt cost you anything anyways..

You could pick up a replacement pump, like a BOSCH 040 cheap enough.

But $70 is like half the price of a fuel pump. Later on if he buys another fuel pump, when it does die, it will cost him more in the long run. Might as well spend the cash and upgrade now..

Just my thoughts!.. :D

Thanks,

Abu

By your reasoning you should sell your r32 and get a new car because it could die at any time.

keep the stock fuel pump, its still working, no reason to change it and spend money now rather than later.

If it dies in the future, change it then. It'll take you 2 hours max, and usually they slowly die rather than just stopping working all of a sudden, so you should have plenty on notice before it goes.

i say stick with your stock pump untill it starts to die, or you decide to do more upgrading. atleast you know it is working. you may get a new pump and it may be faulty straight out of the box, so you would be driving around thinking everything is fine and then end up causing more damage. if you do get a new pump installed i would put it back on the dyno to see if the mixtures have been affected. ucd15r33 put his car on the dyno 2 days after a new fuel pump and the mixtures went from in the 13's to low 10's, so upgrading his pump was a good thing. but if your pump is good and the new one is dodgy it could go the other way.

I didnt say $70 was half the price of a fuel pump, I said its like half he price. Although I have bought a original BOSCH 040 new in the past for $160, which for arguments sake is almost double $70..

You could spend $180 and get a BOSCH 040 brand new, theres one on calaisturbo at the moment. Original BOSCH too, with receipt.

All I was saying was if your after a bit more reliability, and peace of mind you might as well change it. Its a matter of $200 max and about 2 hours work. He obviously has some concerns, hence this thread?

The stock fuel pump would be a least what, 14 years old by now?

Thanks,

Abu

By your reasoning you should sell your r32 and get a new car because it could die at any time.

Not even going to justify that with an answer.

But according to your signature you seemed to have recently upgraded to GTR fuel pump from standard?

Any reason for that, since your car is only making 155RWKW, which is plenty for the standard fuel pump to handle..

Just curoius.

Thanks,

Abu

Edited by abu
All I was saying was if your after a bit more reliability, and peace of mind you might as well change it. Its a matter of $200 max and about 2 hours work. He obviously has some concerns, hence this thread?

The stock fuel pump would be a least what, 14 years old by now?

Agreed

first of all what car is it, i may have missed something, if it is a GTR then it should be fine, however if not i would change it, yes you have had the car tuned and all was good but i can tell you the harder you push the pump the faster they fail and you wont notice it leaning out all that much until it is too late, changing a fuel pump is an easy job especially in a nissan most local mechanic will only charge you around $50-80 or you can do it your self in a half hour. the cost of a new pump is not much and is good insurance

Not even going to justify that with an answer.

But according to your signature you seemed to have recently upgraded to GTR fuel pump from standard?

Any reason for that, since your car is only making 155RWKW, which is plenty for the standard fuel pump to handle..

Just curoius.

Thanks,

Abu

Yeah fair enough, I guess I was just trying to make a point that you can't always go around fixing things just because they might break in the future.

My fuel pump (r32 gtst) lasted 14 years and 175,000kms. I discovered my car was running lean so i replaced it with a GTR pump.

So IMHO if you know your pump is providing enough fuel, its not worth replacing it.

I guess if you want the extra peace of mind, upgrade it. But make sure you get it dynoed after to ensure the new pump is operating as expected.

Cheers,

Rhett

When my stock pump started to die it went from nice solid afr's to running dangerously lean within 6months.

If its old, high km's and showing that its a little lazy.. Replace it; not worth the ringlands.

Your tuner will know what you pump is good for and if its lazy or not.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
    • I was able to get some underside photos while the car was on the ramp The suspension is all Altezza/IS200/IS300 so getting part's will hopefully be less of a headache
    • Welcome to my 2004 Toyota Mark ii IR-V Fortuna (series 2) With a 1JZ-GTE powerplant under the bonnet (hood) it'll give me plenty of scope for power upgrades. For those who aren't familiar with imports, the 1JZ-GTE is a 2.5L 6 cylinder VVTi engine with a single turbocharger. This has the factory R154 5 speed gearbox, along with a aftermarket 2 way LSD differential (brand unknown). Under the arches are a set of CST Zero 1 alloys, 18x9 +30 225/40 up front and 18x9.5 +15 265/35 on the rear. The car was quite low in Japan and there's evidence of the wheels catching the rolled arches/fenders. The tyre's aren't great so I'm in two minds whether to replace both or just the tyres and put up with the wider wheels on the rear. The car still uses stock brakes with the addition of some braided hoses. The exterior is stock with the exception of a BN Sports front bumper and a replacement Fortuna grill  Moving to the interior, the steering wheel has been replaced with a dished MOMO steering wheel (which will get swapped for my Momo Tuner for the time being) Defi Link Gauges are mounted above the climate controls and on the A pillar, the Oil Temp,Oil Pressure,Water Temp and Boost gauges should help with spirited and track driving  The stock seats have been replaced with some retrimmed Recaro bucket seats. Being a larger build these are a little snug, unfortunately the orange isn't for me so I'll look into replacing these down the line. Other modifications include a twin plate clutch, Blitz intercooler, Evolve alloy radiator, a stainless exhaust with decat, HKS EVC-S boost controller and coil overs
    • Apologies for the long read My R34 GTT was up for sale at the beginning of spring due to a few repairs creeping up. The strut tops needed replacing, roof and bonnet (hood) painting (yay for 3 stage pearl) and the underside stripped and treated. I sold the car which allowed me to be in a much better place financially. Leading up to the sale I was already thinking about the replacement. In an ideal world it needed to be a good all-rounder. Something I can mess around with, modify, do track days, do the school run, go on long drives etc.  Options included but not limited to... Laurel C35, Evo 8/9, Civic FD2, Impreza Hawkeye, Aristo and even an Audi S4 Avant (I've already got the Mazda 6 wagon). But there was always one car at the top of the list The Toyota Mark ii JZX110 I found an advert on a Facebook group for an example in Japan, from a seller called Jon at Rising Sun Exports. A few messages back and forth and Jon calls me from Yokohama one morning (or afternoon in his case). He briefly explained the import process, the costs involved and a repeat of the advert. After much deliberation, the price was agreed and the sale was locked in. I've never imported a vehicle so I jumped into the unknown head first. The money transfer was completed through wise.com (fees apply), very easy to use and the money was with him within a day or two.  The car suspension was raised for the vessel and the car dropped off at the port. It was 7 weeks later when the bill of lading was received and the freight invoice sent to me, followed by the export certificate a couple of days after (both digital copies) In the mean time the port had been in contact. I needed an agent to deal with the NOVA (notification of vehicle arrival) along with the tax/duty invoice, this was £75.00. The port also had a fee of £100, I'm guessing to cover the cost of the 10 day 'free storage' and for moving the car off the boat etc. They need a copy of the vehicle invoice, freight invoice and export certificate to allow the vehicle to pass through customs. The vessel arrived on Tuesday 5th August, the tax/duty invoice was generated and sent over. This is generally tax 20% and duty 10% of the vehicle value. Although the invoice came in at a higher amount than I had calculated. Once HMRC had received the payment the vehicle could be released from customs. I thought once the tax/duty was paid you could collect at any point, that's not the case. Your agent will need to book a collection slot, I requested Thursday 7th which was accepted, with a 9:00am slot allocated. It was a 5:00am start from Norfolk heading to Southampton. We eventually found the compound, upon presenting the bill of lading and some ID they released the car (they drove it out of the compound to the front ready for us to load up). The email from the port stated each slot had a 10 minute window, which seemed abit farfetched but the staff said it's not a strict rule. We were there for approx. 30-40 mins in total. A week prior to collecting I contacted my garage and explained the situation, I was able to get an inspection slot that afternoon. For the registration, DVLA require the car to be insured, for this I used a company called Adrian Flux who can insure the vehicle using the VIN number. 
    • Hey guys, looking for these side skirts if anyone can help me out. 
×
×
  • Create New...