Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Get every dollar out of the stock one.

its not worth taking the risk cos with this view, it might srsly end up costing you more dollars than you bargained for. If your going to do at some point, why not just do it now, cos at 280 rwhp, you'd be pretty much close to maxing it up. Sometimes you cant even notice have much it is leaning out. i'd say just change it, before you do long term damage

Edited by moonus

As rednecks would say 'don'ts fix it till it's brokes'

But seriously should be fine, and you don't want to put fuel pump in unless you really have to... It's a stinky c**t of job.

Buy a fuel pressure gauge only $69 (defi style) from just jap for fuel pump insurance + you can rice your cabin up more.

I reckon change it. Its not worth you taking the risk till it dies, it will leave you strandard in the middle of no where.

If you have the cash just buy it, there is no harm in changing it. It may last you another year, or maybe it will last another day. Who's to say when it will go?

At least with a new one, you will know its got a long life a head of it, and its not going to clonk out any time soon.

If your planning on getting more power out of it, why not upgrade it. The stock one didnt cost you anything anyways..

You could pick up a replacement pump, like a BOSCH 040 cheap enough.

Buy a fuel pressure gauge only $69 (defi style)...

But $70 is like half the price of a fuel pump. Later on if he buys another fuel pump, when it does die, it will cost him more in the long run. Might as well spend the cash and upgrade now..

Just my thoughts!.. :D

Thanks,

Abu

Edited by abu
I reckon change it. Its not worth you taking the risk till it dies, it will leave you strandard in the middle of no where.

If you have the cash just buy it, there is no harm in changing it. It may last you another year, or maybe it will last another day. Who's to say when it will go?

At least with a new one, you will know its got a long life a head of it, and its not going to clonk out any time soon.

If your planning on getting more power out of it, why not upgrade it. The stock one didnt cost you anything anyways..

You could pick up a replacement pump, like a BOSCH 040 cheap enough.

But $70 is like half the price of a fuel pump. Later on if he buys another fuel pump, when it does die, it will cost him more in the long run. Might as well spend the cash and upgrade now..

Just my thoughts!.. :D

Thanks,

Abu

Where are these $140 fuel pumps you speak of... my genuine bosch cost $220 delivered. A fuel pressure gauge is a good idea all the same, as if fuel pressure drops the afr's lean out and cause damage.

Many cheap after market fuel pumps break or seize shortly after installation due to poor installation, factory faults with pumps, and especailly with 040's the bottom filter screen sucks up crap and reduces possible flow which burns out the pump.

I reckon change it. Its not worth you taking the risk till it dies, it will leave you strandard in the middle of no where.

If you have the cash just buy it, there is no harm in changing it. It may last you another year, or maybe it will last another day. Who's to say when it will go?

At least with a new one, you will know its got a long life a head of it, and its not going to clonk out any time soon.

If your planning on getting more power out of it, why not upgrade it. The stock one didnt cost you anything anyways..

You could pick up a replacement pump, like a BOSCH 040 cheap enough.

But $70 is like half the price of a fuel pump. Later on if he buys another fuel pump, when it does die, it will cost him more in the long run. Might as well spend the cash and upgrade now..

Just my thoughts!.. :D

Thanks,

Abu

By your reasoning you should sell your r32 and get a new car because it could die at any time.

keep the stock fuel pump, its still working, no reason to change it and spend money now rather than later.

If it dies in the future, change it then. It'll take you 2 hours max, and usually they slowly die rather than just stopping working all of a sudden, so you should have plenty on notice before it goes.

i say stick with your stock pump untill it starts to die, or you decide to do more upgrading. atleast you know it is working. you may get a new pump and it may be faulty straight out of the box, so you would be driving around thinking everything is fine and then end up causing more damage. if you do get a new pump installed i would put it back on the dyno to see if the mixtures have been affected. ucd15r33 put his car on the dyno 2 days after a new fuel pump and the mixtures went from in the 13's to low 10's, so upgrading his pump was a good thing. but if your pump is good and the new one is dodgy it could go the other way.

I didnt say $70 was half the price of a fuel pump, I said its like half he price. Although I have bought a original BOSCH 040 new in the past for $160, which for arguments sake is almost double $70..

You could spend $180 and get a BOSCH 040 brand new, theres one on calaisturbo at the moment. Original BOSCH too, with receipt.

All I was saying was if your after a bit more reliability, and peace of mind you might as well change it. Its a matter of $200 max and about 2 hours work. He obviously has some concerns, hence this thread?

The stock fuel pump would be a least what, 14 years old by now?

Thanks,

Abu

By your reasoning you should sell your r32 and get a new car because it could die at any time.

Not even going to justify that with an answer.

But according to your signature you seemed to have recently upgraded to GTR fuel pump from standard?

Any reason for that, since your car is only making 155RWKW, which is plenty for the standard fuel pump to handle..

Just curoius.

Thanks,

Abu

Edited by abu
All I was saying was if your after a bit more reliability, and peace of mind you might as well change it. Its a matter of $200 max and about 2 hours work. He obviously has some concerns, hence this thread?

The stock fuel pump would be a least what, 14 years old by now?

Agreed

first of all what car is it, i may have missed something, if it is a GTR then it should be fine, however if not i would change it, yes you have had the car tuned and all was good but i can tell you the harder you push the pump the faster they fail and you wont notice it leaning out all that much until it is too late, changing a fuel pump is an easy job especially in a nissan most local mechanic will only charge you around $50-80 or you can do it your self in a half hour. the cost of a new pump is not much and is good insurance

Not even going to justify that with an answer.

But according to your signature you seemed to have recently upgraded to GTR fuel pump from standard?

Any reason for that, since your car is only making 155RWKW, which is plenty for the standard fuel pump to handle..

Just curoius.

Thanks,

Abu

Yeah fair enough, I guess I was just trying to make a point that you can't always go around fixing things just because they might break in the future.

My fuel pump (r32 gtst) lasted 14 years and 175,000kms. I discovered my car was running lean so i replaced it with a GTR pump.

So IMHO if you know your pump is providing enough fuel, its not worth replacing it.

I guess if you want the extra peace of mind, upgrade it. But make sure you get it dynoed after to ensure the new pump is operating as expected.

Cheers,

Rhett

When my stock pump started to die it went from nice solid afr's to running dangerously lean within 6months.

If its old, high km's and showing that its a little lazy.. Replace it; not worth the ringlands.

Your tuner will know what you pump is good for and if its lazy or not.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...