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Ive got a 180sx with an RB20 conversion and are looking to upgrade it... from what ive read its fair to ask for 250rwkw from stock internals. Ive bought a PWR 276x775x73mm tube and fin intercooler, and have read that series 4 rx7 injectors will also help me get there. I have a 3 inch exhaust with seperate dump pipe, that enters back into the exhaust about 50cm back. Im still undecided on an ECU. What turbo should i go for? Ive read in Zoom that a Trust TD06 or HKS 3037 turbo would be best. Is this the best combination or should i be looking elsewhere? If possible i would prefer to stay with an internal wastegate but if there isnt an option for that i can make room in my budget for an external one. What power could i expect if i get the standard one hi-flowed or another OEM turbo hi-flowed? Is there anything else ive left out? Where are the best places (im in QLD) to find 2nd hand turbos?

Thanks

Luke

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Thanks, where can i read more about them, or is there somebody in qld who i should talk to? I was going to go see Sub zero, fantasy performance, and TRP on saturday. Im new to turbos, but not a noob to performance cars so on this part i really know nothing.

Heres a great spot to learn :P

As you know, the bigger the turbo, the more power you have.

Though the more lag you get due to its size.

So basically you have to pick what power you want, and pick the smallest turbo to make that power. Easier said than done, though theres plenty of info here from ppl that have done it and their advice

Hi Luke, our R32 GTST with RB20DET came with 3" exhaust from cat back, HKS pod filter and (luckily) an RB25DET standard turbo.

Following is what we have done since, who we bought it from and how much it cost;

- Hi flowing the RB25DET turbo for 450 bhp, GCG cost $1800

- Separated stainless steel turbine and wastegate pipe to back of cat (ie; no cat) Performance Metalcraft $1,000

- R32 GTR Intercooler, SDU Forum $700

- aluminium I/C pipework by Micks Metalcraft $400

- Silicone I/C hoses and stainless clamps, GCG $300

- New plugs, NGK copper, Auto One $20

- Castrol Formula R Synthetic 10-60w oil $60

- Apexi Power FC. SDU Forum $1250

- Apexi Commander. SDU Forum $400

- Apexi PFC Boost controller kit, Nengun $500

- Cold air box, Capral Aluminium $60

- Dyno tune at Redline Motorsport $420

- Jun adjustable camshaft pulleys, SDU forum $350

- OS Giken twin plate clutch, SDU Forum $750

- GCG oil catch can $125

- Serck oil cooler and remote filter, SDU Forum $500

That's around $8,600 in total for 210 rwkw. Since we are only using 1.1 bar there is probably another 30 to 40 rwkw in it, but it needs to be reliable and responsive.

A lot of the stuff will be used on the next engine which is a 3.1 litre RB30/RB26 hybrid. So justifying the full on way we have attacked the RB20.

Hope that was of some use.

I think a 2835 may be more suitable then a 3037. Hikari have plenty of used 2835s at the moment including a 2835 Pro.

HKS are good but dont forget the good old GT30 Garret turbos. Talk to your local turbo shop, they should be able to spec the right housings/turbines etc to suit you hp needs.

My preference is always to make the required power using the least amount of boost possible. This may mean a higher flowing turbo and a little more lag, but i am not all that comfortable running std internals with say a 2530 at 1.5bar to make that sort of power. If i can find a 2530 i will be shooting for 210-220rwks, or whatever 1.2bar yields on my RB20

If it is purely a street engine then it will probably live at higher boost. But if your going to be doing circuit work with sustained full throttle acceleration then id try and limit boost to say 1.2bar.

Would others agree with what my ramblings???

- Cold air box, Capral Aluminium $60

Brody , i think Sydneykid may have bent/folded up his own CAI, as Capral are an aluminium supplier. $60 is most likely the price for the sheet/misc fasteners and perhaps some 3" or similar hose for a feed from the front of the car.

Then add some blood, sweat and tears and you have your own CAI.

HKS 2530 on RB20DET with 1.2bar made 230rwkw in mates car - this is with FMIC, full exhaust and increased fuel pressure, pod and EBC. Stock ECU (not chipped), manifold, plenum, afm. He also runs a catch can and oil cooler. This car has heaps of midrange, which it needs as its a drift car. He has driven this car hard for a couple of years and never had a problem with the internals. If you have a copy of the latest HPI mag, his car is featured in there - its the cefiro. Remember if you want a streeter, a car with good midrange will beat a car with top end power every time - but if its for drag, different story (depending exactly when it comes on boost).

I would imagine that a HKS 2835 would put you up around the 250-260rwkw mark. If you use a small turbine housing and large wastegate, it will bring it on boost earlier, making it more streetable - but you may find the injectors are starting to thin a bit, and the fuel pump may well need an upgrade. this also means ECU will need doing - its really going to add up. The HKS2835PRO has a t3 turbine inlet, and will bolt straight up, which would be a bit cheaper if you wanted to retain the stock manifold - but still need to do injectors, fuel pump and ecu. Also with the PRO you can keep the same dump you have now.

Stock ECU? The AFM's don't handle that type of power and when running good af's up top due to near max duty cycle (hence why you needed more fuel pressure) the mid would be leaning out big time.

Maybe the ECU was chipped back in japan and he was lucky he performed similiar mods.. Thats the only explination that i can think of ... ?!?! :(

Joel, I was equally sceptical, but James assured me that what he has is all that's necessary went on to explain that he has seen this sort of setup alot when he lived in Japan. He swears its a stock ECU. Recons alot of places that tell you that you need more firstly dont have the experience that the Japs do, and secondly want to sell you stuff you dont need :)

The whole conversation started when I told him what I was chasing and how I was planning about doing it, he talked me out of spending a heap of dollars that I didnt need to.

Clint, he took me for a spin only a few weeks ago to prove his point (fark he knows how to throw it around :P), definately no z32 afm - drop into their shop and take a look.

I still have trouble believing the few mods and the performance he has achieved - but if it cant be done, he wouldnt be in a hurry to recommend people do it - his business rep is relying on it.

Guest INASNT
Originally posted by Steve

The HKS2835PRO has a t3 turbine inlet, and will bolt straight up, which would be a bit cheaper if you wanted to retain the stock manifold - but still need to do injectors, fuel pump and ecu.  Also with the PRO you can keep the same dump you have now.

I have trying to find out info from japan or locally of any1 that has installed the 2835 pro s with t3 flange and if it actually can bolt on and have all the housing clear without touching anything but no 1 has a straight answer coz they havent seen it installed in a rb25 or rb20 as yet coz its such a new turbo.

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