Jump to content
SAU Community

K&N rob


Recommended Posts

Be carefull with the high beam bulbs rob.

I know in the R32's they have a some sort of problem where it overheats the stalk switch and some times the light switch on the dash. Causing you to have no lights.

It has happened to mine and it also cooked the silver reflective plastic in the light its self.

Hence that is why one of my lights looks a little buggered.

Apparently it is due to on the R32's at least to much power being drawn through the light switch and stalk, some sort of relay setup needed to be installed?!?!

I was quoted around $200 to fix it, so i slapped normal bulbs in.. :D

R33's maybe different.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1749-kn-rob/#findComment-33134
Share on other sites

Drifty,how many watts r they?

I`m doing a mod with adding 2 relays so both sets of lights are on when you flik to high beam(bright light,bright light).Then i`m fitting a rear spotlight so when Andy gets behind me i can switch it on so he will slow down and i dont have to put up with those bl**dy bright lights through the hills:lol: :lol:

Is your battery a GS Nippon(original battery) if so you might need an upgrade.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1749-kn-rob/#findComment-33139
Share on other sites

Joel:

Yikes $200

They seem to work ok , car also already had the low beam ultra whites in it when I got the car and seem to be ok so far.... fingers crossed.

Andy:

Yep a bluebird, was pretty crazy, it took off , instant sideways, prob is I lauched and just sat there wheelspinning (damn stuffup launch, so i didnt even move, then it popped out of first gear... so went ahh well stuff it... they were little **** heads too, throwing abuse around , in was so tempted to get out of the car and beat the **** out of the loud mouthed passenger.. will prob do it if i see him again actually.

Bugalugs:

The bulbs ae 12V 55W, yep got origional piece of rubbish GS Nippon battery, Tonkins said I should upgrade it too. think i will have to.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1749-kn-rob/#findComment-33175
Share on other sites

Guest veesixtyfour
Originally posted by Bugalugs

Drifty,how many watts r they?

I`m doing a mod with adding 2 relays so both sets of lights are on when you flik to high beam(bright light,bright light).Then i`m fitting a rear spotlight so when Andy gets behind me i can switch it on so he will slow down and i dont have to put up with those bl**dy bright lights through the hills:lol: :lol:  

Is your battery a GS Nippon(original battery) if so you might need an upgrade.

Hey dude an chance of u documenting your install? :D

Sounds like a reallygood idea.. wouldnt mind pinching it if u dont mind of course :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1749-kn-rob/#findComment-33205
Share on other sites

Veeman,

Yeh no probs.I was going to do it today until i started stuffing around with my suspension then washing the car inside and out.

May do it during the week if the weather is good(no carport).

Drifty,

For Australia the K&N would probably be better.Cleaning a filter would be better than having to replace the element.

The watts are the same as standard so they should be alright.

Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1749-kn-rob/#findComment-33332
Share on other sites

You can clean it more often that means more air getting through not clogging up like the one you cant clean.

I`m not sure with the K&N but with my Uni-Filter and Finer-Filter(for my buggy) i use Mineral turps to clean it then i let it dry then put the filter oil on.

I think the K&N would trap more finer dust particles than the Apexi.

Hey i saw that sexy looking commodore(JAFFA) cruising down Henley Beach Rd. tonight while i was going home from work.

Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1749-kn-rob/#findComment-34299
Share on other sites

Rob,

If you are after a pod air filter than doesn't have to be re-oiled, have you thought about the Trust Airnx Air filter.

It is washable with water and soap.

You can get it both in a pod and pannel.

I think the pod costs around $200 and the pannel cost around the $100 (not sure on the last one).

Autobarn in Adelaide have them.

http://www.yellowpages.com.au/yp/search/bu...requestid=90394

Here is a bit of a write up on them.

http://www.takakaira.com/performance/trust...p3?index=airinx

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1749-kn-rob/#findComment-34315
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
    • Yes they do. For some maybe. But for those used the most by abusers, ie Skylines, the numbers are known. The stock eyebrow height for R32/3 Skylines is about 365/375mm or thereabouts. The minimum such heights are recorded in adjacent columns in the database.
×
×
  • Create New...