Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 453
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Once my car is back up and running i will gladly give you a hand Daniel. Keep these cruises coming, hopefully i will see you all before summer :thumbsup: .

if this 1 is as big as its shaping up to be im sure that i will be organising more of them in the future. if u dont make it to this 1 Al then i will definitly look for a hand when i come round to organising another 1 of these during the summer.

Hey all,

Im counting down the days now! cant wait.

There wil be alot of skylines in car washes on saturday!

lol ye was plannin on doiing a wash meet sat night

if i can find a car wash with a big carpark i will post one up

Theres is the members buxton burger cruise on the saturday before this (same week end) prob wont affect the cruise though. My cars just gonna rack up a fair few km's that week end though! Cruizin all week end... :D

Theres is the members buxton burger cruise on the saturday before this (same week end) prob wont affect the cruise though. My cars just gonna rack up a fair few km's that week end though! Cruizin all week end... :D

so? this cruise is the main event... some sideshow wont deter people coming on whats shaping as the biggest

non-member/member cruise of the year.

Just to let you know Daniel, so you don't feel like SAU VIC keep trying to stuff up your cruises, the cruises was planned and dated BEFORE your date change.

Just letting you know, that there is no intended hard feelings from the club. Keep up the good work! :D

nah man no harm felt. just the way it goes. but hey, the way i see it is that this is the perfect oppurtunity for non members to see what a members cruise could be like. and at the same time you'll see some members who dont mind cruising 2 days to show up.

well dan you know i would help you 100% if i was 100% comeing, however

cause i now live in wagga wagga its as follows.

friday-450km trip to melb (what fun)

sat- track day (hope i dont brake any thing)

sun- 400km round trip down GOR

sun night 450km trip to wagga

so looks like the liner will need a service after just one weeken.

but i wona come cause it will be fun.

altho i think 3-4 tanks of fuel for me (apx $320)

and al thanks for the brakes they are now on

Sorry guys was busy over the w/e (brought a motorbike) and forgot about the pic of the mr2 so i will post them as soon as i see the car again. But i am still only on the maybe list.

Weighing between the buxton burger cruise and the GOR cruise LOL.

However, lookin at the long list of participants, this seems like the cruise to go :D

Should be in :)

Anybody want to organize a mini cruise from the STI Docklands to the BP meet point? :D

I'll be there too :D

So count me in..

Doesnt matter if i bring my sil80 does it?

Take it easy

Trent

yeh bring the sil80. i got no issues with that. the list grows....

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...