Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I just pulled the engine out of my R33 half cut last night, and I'm wondering what maintenance work I should be doing to the engine while everything is accessable. I plan on replacing the timing belt, rear main seal and some radiator hoses but I know there's probably other stuff that's worth doing so I was wondering if the technical guys could give me some advice about this. Thanks in advance for any input.

Cheers,

Jono

Hey all,

I just pulled the engine out of my R33 half cut last night, and I'm wondering what maintenance work I should be doing to the engine while everything is accessable. I plan on replacing the timing belt, rear main seal and some radiator hoses but I know there's probably other stuff that's worth doing so I was wondering if the technical guys could give me some advice about this. Thanks in advance for any input.

Cheers,

Jono

i'd be checking the exhaust manifold studs as they quite often have some snapped ones, and they are alot easier to drill out of your head when you have it out. and oil pump, coz once u get the engine back in it will be a pain in the arse to lift it again to drop the sump and change the oil pump... just some things i can think of...

Good luck with the conversion...

Water pump?

I did my water pump and oil pump when I did my timing belt but in the car.

yeh agree with abo bob

Do the water pump and idler pullies EX cam gear if u want one on if you do that do the cam seals ect...

I'd do all the hoses.... once ones lets go they all start to go in rapid fire :) If your running the standard plenum you can bet the ones underneath and at the rear will be the first to go.... much easier to replace them all while its out of the car!

Cool thanks a mill everyone for the suggestions, and good call made_guy, that's up there on the priorities list. Would've been nice to get an engine bay respray but funds don't permit atm. Thanks again dudes, will post some pics when the conversion is done :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...